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Left, Niko and a friend doing a traditional dance. Right, Paula joins in.

On June 6 we spent much of the morning doing much-needed laundry, then relaxed at a wonderful beach around the corner from our hotel. This was the Feast of the Trinity, and we returned to Niko's for the evening's festivities, watching local families dance in the tiny space of of the crowded cafe. One man's outstretched arm swept Paul's glasses off his face! That's how close we were to the action. We went to bed at 3:00 AM.

June 7, we took a large, smoke-filled boat the long way back to Athens, stopping at each and every island port in the Cyclades, it seemed. We arrived in the middle of the night to return to the Athens Gate Hotel.