Finally we arrived in the thriving modern tourist town of Olympia, which has as high a concentration of tacky souvenirs as the Plaka in Athens. However, we discovered a fine little record and book shop at the end of the street which displayed this sign in its window: Pour ceux qui cherchent la Grece sans cliché ["For those who seek Greece without cliches"]. The owner conversed at length with us about the recordings of Byzantine and Classical music we had seen in Athens and opened packages to let us hear samples and study the documentation. He also offered us wine (the gold merchants of Olympia usually offer ouzo to promising customers). We rewarded him by spending heavily. It was a nice experience. Paul is wearing the new t-shirt Paula has just bought him, embroidered with the image from the 50-drachma coin: an ancient ship.