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We prevailed upon the drivers (who spoke little English) to stop in one village to let us buy excellent tangerines and bananas, and they were the only food we had all day. We also prevailed upon the drivers, who seemed determined to make the day-long trip uninterrupted, to halt by the side of the road for a rest stop Indian-style: in a field.

When we boarded the train in Patna we were expecting the first-class accommodations we had paid for. Instead we had the entertaining experience of traveling second class, six to a compartment in triple-tiered bunks, while other passengers tried to take our reserved seats and vendors came and went offering tea, snacks, and cigarettes.

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