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The ancient city of Aphrodisias (Afrodisias), with a great temple dedicated to Aphrodite, goddess of love, is not often visited by tour groups. The best way for us to get there was to arrange for a taxi to take us from Pamukkale for the two-hour drive south, wait for us while we toured the site, and then take us on to Denizili to catch a bus. Fortunately, Turkish taxis are very cheap by American standards.

Here we are standing in front of the imposing Tetrapylon, the ornamental gateway that greeted visitors headed for the Temple of Aphrodite, whose columns are visible in the background. Most of the monuments at Afrodisias date to the 2nd century CD and later.

Most archeological sites are rather dusty and rocky, but this one is beautifully landscaped and maintained, thanks to the work of people from New York University. Much later on our trip, in Ankara, we were talking about how much we enjoyed Afrodisias in our hotel when one of the American guests, delighted, told us he was an archeologist based there.

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