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We drove down the western side of the Bosporus, toward the historic battlefields of Gallipoli (Gelibolu) in World War I, where Turkish leader Kemal Atatürk's triumphs against the British catapulted him to prominence. Numerous Australians and New Zealanders whose countrymen fought there come to tour the vast national park where the fighting took place. As a result, in this area we were often mistaken for Australians.

Our bus just happened to take a ferry across the Bosporous from the modern town of Gelibolu.