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Modern Bergama reveals its charms slowly. The sidewalks are crumbling and the streets dusty. The maps in the Lonely Planet guide were inadequate when we came to various wedge-shaped intersections in search of the recommended "Pergamum Restaurant" (bear right at the point of each wedge to stay on the main drag, and look for it on the left-hand side of the street if you're heading toward the Acropolis).

The Lonely Planet book is by far the most popular guide to Turkey--we saw copies in a number of different languages. Generally it was very good, but its directions for getting to and around sites were sometimes too sketchy (we never did find the Sokollu Mehmet Pasa Camii in Istanbul, for instance).

The restaurant is contained in a remodelled Ottoman house.