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Changing buses in Izmir, we let ourselves be captured by an enthusiastic and friendly hotel tout--the owner of the Hotel Nazar--and wound up on our only really uncomfortable bus of the trip, but decided to stick at least for the first night in Selçuk with the luxurious Hotel Kale Han ("Castle Inn").

The rooms are decorated with lovely period antiques and prints and the hotel has a fine restaurant, but the bed we were given at first was just as uncomfortable as the one in Bergama. The difference was that a complaint to the front desk got them to give us a new mattress quickly. The toilets, like those in many older hotels, couldn't handle toilet paper.