N8's EB rollcage page
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This page last updated on Oct 31, 1998.
unassembled
main bar foot
plates
rear support
foot plates These foot plate holes did not line up with a level portion
of the rear floorboard (by the tailgate.) To make it so they did, I could
have cut part of the bar off that slides into the main bar, thereby shortening
the rear support bar. I felt that it would be better to have these foot
plates over the seam (and floor support), giving much additional strength.
To make up for the space under the rear two holes in these plates, I cut
some lengths of 1/4" thick angle iron (bitch to drill through) to fit under
the plates giving it EXTREME strength compared to mounting it several inches
forward on even/level floorboard.
view from
underside of truck Notice the rear floor support as mentioned in above
description.
main bar
Notice the side supports that bolt into the bedrails. The driver's side
support plate was not welded in the correct position. On the passenger
side, the front hole conflicts with a threaded hole built into the bedrail.
I will weld on more plates to correct and strengthen
this (see new pix.)
*New front roll cage
(Smittybuilt) *for additional good pix/info/install see Jon
Hanna's page. Full cage view
This took quite a while to line up/ cut to correct length, cut/grind
the fishmouth ends, and add extra bed rail mounts
to the rear bars. I had to modify the glovebox door by taking
off the stock hinges and putting a hinge on the far passenger side.
It works great. I also had to move the parking brake by drilling
a new hole about 1.5 inches towards the passenger side and moving/pushing
the parking brake assembly over to bolt it in. That's it--by careful
measuring and cutting/grinding, I was able to get the bars in place and
still be able to use the window cranks and gas tank switch on the dash,
and the adjustable rear view mirror handle on the driver's door.
The wing windows still interfere, but I don't use them with the top off
anyway. If I wanted to, I would open them before closing the doors.
I placed the main spreader bar back enough that I can still use the wiper
motor cover, but not too close for head bashing. I will have to modify
the wiper motor cover if I keep the drop bracket used for the Kayline bikini
top though. Installed view-you can
see the Kayline riser on top edge of windshield.
Here are some pix of how I cut/fishmouthed the tubes. I measured
carefully and eyeballed the length (leaving it a little long, just in case.)
Then eyeballed the angle of the cut/fishmouth. Marked it and made
pilot holes exactly on opposide sides of the tube. You have to take
into account the fishmouth when making the cut. Then used a loooong
pilot bit in the middle of a 2 1/8" (I didn't have a 2") hole saw.
The long bit kept the hole saw centered.
This takes a lot of effort still and you should use a drill with a handle
if possible. Once halfway through, flipped it over and finished it
up from the other side. The 2 1/8" fishmouths actually fit great
and didn't leave any gaps. The actually fit the bars better than
the 2" fishmouths already cut into some of the ends from the factory.
A little grinding to get the length correct and then tack welded them in
place.
The main spreader bar is fishmouthed at each end already, but I ground
one end slightly for a better fit-my fit of the side bars was slightly
inward than the bar is designed for.
End of side bar where it connects to main bar.
Closeup
End of side bar where it welds to floor plate.
I bought 2 additional spreader bars to go in the middle from the main
bar to the front spreader. These were quite
long and had a bend in them. At first I didn't think the bend
was useful, but I am REALLY glad it was there. I was able to cut
off some tube from each end and have the middle spreader bars exactly parallel
to the side bars using some of the curve. They are slightly
higher than the side bars, but they are parallel. If the bend
wasn't there, they would dip towards the front and look stupid (and be
more of a head clearance issue.)
I also bought some sheet metal (ummm, make that 1/8" plate), to weld
onto the center spreaders. I got the idea from Jon Hanna (see
his page). I left several inches open in
the back area to access my vent whenever I have my hardtop on.
It makes a good mount for my CB antenna when I have all the tops off.
I plan on probably mounting my CB up there and some interior lights.
I did the drivers side bar first, then the passenger, then the main
spreader. After these were fit, tack welded them in place, starting
with the drivers side. The center bars were cut and fit and tacked
in last. I pulled the whole thing out and welded it on the driveway.
I like the look of the white bars, but still felt padding
would be a good, safe idea-at least in obvious areas that were within head-striking
distance. I used Arma-coat refrigeration padding (1/2" thick), and
special glue that goes with it for gluing it all together (no ugly tape
or wire-ties.) It is pretty dense stuff, but a little thicker would
probably be better.
*New Kayline bikini
top
e-mail me at i6735189@wsunix.wsu.edu.
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