unassembled
main bar foot plates
rear support foot plates These foot plate holes did not line up with a level portion of the rear floorboard (by the tailgate.) To make it so they did, I could have cut part of the bar off that slides into the main bar, thereby shortening the rear support bar. I felt that it would be better to have these foot plates over the seam (and floor support), giving much additional strength. To make up for the space under the rear two holes in these plates, I cut some lengths of 1/4" thick angle iron (bitch to drill through) to fit under the plates giving it EXTREME strength compared to mounting it several inches forward on even/level floorboard.
view from underside of truck Notice the rear floor support as mentioned in above description.
main bar Notice the side supports that bolt into the bedrails. The driver's side support plate was not welded in the correct position. On the passenger side, the front hole conflicts with a threaded hole built into the bedrail. I will weld on more plates to correct and strengthen this (see new pix.)

This took quite a while to line up/ cut to correct length, cut/grind the fishmouth ends, and add extra bed rail mounts to the rear bars.  I had to modify the glovebox door by taking off the stock hinges and putting a hinge on the far passenger side.  It works great.  I also had to move the parking brake by drilling a new hole about 1.5 inches towards the passenger side and moving/pushing the parking brake assembly over to bolt it in.  That's it--by careful measuring and cutting/grinding, I was able to get the bars in place and still be able to use the window cranks and gas tank switch on the dash, and the adjustable rear view mirror handle on the driver's door.  The wing windows still interfere, but I don't use them with the top off anyway.  If I wanted to, I would open them before closing the doors.  I placed the main spreader bar back enough that I can still use the wiper motor cover, but not too close for head bashing.  I will have to modify the wiper motor cover if I keep the drop bracket used for the Kayline bikini top though.  Installed view-you can see the Kayline riser on top edge of windshield.
Here are some pix of how I cut/fishmouthed the tubes.  I measured carefully and eyeballed the length (leaving it a little long, just in case.)  Then eyeballed the angle of the cut/fishmouth.  Marked it and made pilot holes exactly on opposide sides of the tube.  You have to take into account the fishmouth when making the cut.  Then used a loooong pilot bit in the middle of a 2 1/8" (I didn't have a 2") hole saw.  The long bit kept the hole saw centered.  This takes a lot of effort still and you should use a drill with a handle if possible.  Once halfway through, flipped it over and finished it up from the other side.  The 2 1/8" fishmouths actually fit great and didn't leave any gaps.  The actually fit the bars better than the 2" fishmouths already cut into some of the ends from the factory.  A little grinding to get the length correct and then tack welded them in place.
The main spreader bar is fishmouthed at each end already, but I ground one end slightly for a better fit-my fit of the side bars was slightly inward than the bar is designed for.
End of side bar where it connects to main bar.  Closeup
End of side bar where it welds to floor plate.
I bought 2 additional spreader bars to go in the middle from the main bar to the front spreader.  These were quite long and had a bend in them.  At first I didn't think the bend was useful, but I am REALLY glad it was there.  I was able to cut off some tube from each end and have the middle spreader bars exactly parallel to the side bars using some of the curve.  They are slightly higher than the side bars, but they are parallel.  If the bend wasn't there, they would dip towards the front and look stupid (and be more of a head clearance issue.)
I also bought some sheet metal (ummm, make that 1/8" plate), to weld onto the center spreaders.  I got the idea from Jon Hanna (see his page).  I left several inches open in the back area to access my vent whenever I have my hardtop on.  It makes a good mount for my CB antenna when I have all the tops off.  I plan on probably mounting my CB up there and some interior lights.
I did the drivers side bar first, then the passenger, then the main spreader.  After these were fit, tack welded them in place, starting with the drivers side.  The center bars were cut and fit and tacked in last.  I pulled the whole thing out and welded it on the driveway.
I like the look of the white bars, but still felt padding would be a good, safe idea-at least in obvious areas that were within head-striking distance.  I used Arma-coat refrigeration padding (1/2" thick), and special glue that goes with it for gluing it all together (no ugly tape or wire-ties.)  It is pretty dense stuff, but a little thicker would probably be better.

e-mail me at i6735189@wsunix.wsu.edu.

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