University of Arizona
Division of Retailing and Consumer Studies
School of Family & Consumer Resources
P.O. Box 210033
Tucson, Arizona 85721-0033
Phone: (520) 621-1715,1295
Fax: (520) 621-3209
RETAIL PATRONAGE BEHAVIOR OF MEXICAN CONSUMERS WHO SHOP IN ARIZONA.
M.A. Eastlick. Division of Retailing and Consumer Studies.
University of Arizona, Tucson, AZ 85721. Project completion 1997.
This study examines differences between shopping attitudes and
patterns of Mexican-American and Mexican-national shoppers in
Arizona and the influence of their ethnicity and ethnic identification
on both attitudes and patterns. Data was collected using mall
intercepts. A total of 1,445 intercepts were made by trained interviewers
each week and weekend day from April 3 through April 15, 1995.
Of those intercepts, 378 usable surveys were obtained. Interviews
were conducted in central locations of each of four shopping areas
located in a large, Southwestern metropolitan area. These areas
included regional shopping malls, each with a similar mix of retailers
including regional and national department stores and national
chain and independent specialty stores offering a variety of general
merchandise. Data obtained from each survey included information
on shopping orientations, preferences for retailer attributes
and information sources, purchasing patterns, personal values,
ethnic identification, and socioeconomic information. Data was
analyzed using multiple regression analysis and multiple analysis
of variance. Ethnic identification was found to be a significant
factor differentiating attitudes of Hispanic-Americans from those
of Mexican-nationals.
JAPANESE GIFT-GIVING AND SNACKING BEHAVIOR. K. Gehrt, and
S. Shim, Division of Retailing Consumer Studies. University of
Arizona, Tucson, AZ 85721. On-going project. Funded by National
Research Institute/USDA.
Japanese fruit consumption often takes place in the context of
snacking and gift giving. Despite the formidable challenges that
confront U.S. fruit exporters in Japan, there is a relative paucity
of research devoted to Japanese consumer preferences with respect
to consumption of fruit and fruit products. Thus, this project
will assess situational factors that influence the snacking and
gift-giving behavior of Japanese consumers with regard to fruit.
Separate snack and gift surveys will be designed as a result of
focus group interviews related to snack and gift products and
product usage situations. The surveys will ask respondents to
rate various snack and gift products in the context of various
situational scenarios. A total of 1,000 households will receive
the snack questionnaire and 1,000 will receive the snack questionnaire
in seven major Japanese markets. Data analysis will involve repeated-measures
analysis of variance to evaluate percentage of variance explained.
To evaluate the nature of situational influence, regression analysis
will be used to situationally characterize snack and gift products
and cluster analysis will be used to delineate snack and gift
market structures based on the similarity of situational characterizations
of products.
The proposed study represents an innovative approach to market
segmentation that complements traditional consumer profile and
products attribute based segmentation efforts. The results of
the study will, therefore, provide another window through which
U.S. fruit exporters may more realistically assess their strategies
vis-a-vis the Japanese snack and gift markets.
CREDIT CARD USAGE PATTERNS OF THE ELDERLY: A SEGMENTED APPROACH.
K. C. Gehrt and E. Apostolova. Division of Retailing
Consumer Studies. University of Arizona, Tucson, AZ 85721. On-going
project
The study compares the credit card use/abuse patterns of baby
busters, baby boomers, and the elderly. The manner in which socialization
factors are related to credit card usage patterns is of particular
interest.
AN EXAMINATION OF ORIENTATIONS TOWARD ENVIRONMENTAL CONCERN.
D. K. Skinner, D. A. Lawson, K. C. Gehrt. Division
of Retailing Consumer Studies. University of Arizona, Tucson,
AZ 85721. On-going project
Past research has compared those who are environmentally concerned
to those who are not. This study examines the multiplicity of
manners in which individuals become environmentally involved.
Issues addressed include involvement via altered behavior versus
involvement via intentions that fall short of actual behavioral
changes. Another issue is behavior via recycling versus behavior
via organizational involvement.
PREDICTING RETAIL CAREER PREFERENCE AND CHOICE AMONG COLLEGE
STUDENTS: A SOCIALIZATION PERSPECTIVE. E. Goldsberry.
Division of Retailing Consumer Studies. University of Arizona,
Tucson, AZ 85721. On-going project. Funded by the Agricultural
Experimental Station.
College students' career preference toward, and choice in, the
retailing area will be regarded as an outcome of socialization
factors and antecedent variables. the conceptual framework is
based on a consumer socialization model which lists the antecedent
variables of college students including social structure and developmental
factors. Preference toward retailing is a function of the perceived
instrumentality of attaining a retailing career, and the desirability
of one outcome over another. Career choice in retailing is the
positive force toward an occupation considered to be analogous
to a probability or likelihood of behavior.
Currently under development is a mailout questionnaire with Likert-type
statements adapted from focus groups. The target population will
be approximately 2000 college students in 10-15 large 4-year geographically
represented universities. Principal component factor analysis
will be used in conceptualizing statements measuring interaction
with socialization agents. Hypotheses will be tested using stepwise
multiple regression in predicting each criterion variable.
RETAIL CAREER PREFERENCES AND CHOICES AMONG COLLEGE STUDENTS:
A SOCIALIZATION PERSPECTIVE. S. Shim, and E. Goldsberry. Division
of Retailing Consumer Studies. University of Arizona, Tucson,
AZ 85721. On-going project. Funded by Brigham Young University/Retail
Management Institute Research Program.
Career opportunities in retailing are rapidly expanding and there
is a concomitant need for a well-trained workforce in the retailing
profession. Yet, a retailing career is not generally viewed by
most college graduates as an inherently challenging and rewarding
career choice. Therefore, as an attempt to elicit the reasoning
underlying this prevailing viewpoint, this study will explore
the factors and process by which college students develop a retail
career preference and choice from a socialization theory perspective.
A nationwide sample of 3,000 juniors and seniors enrolled in four
year institutions will be sent a pretested survey questionnaire.
Retail career preference and choice will be operationalized using
Vroom's (1964) expectancy theory. A confirmatory factor analysis
will be performed on socialization agent interaction statements
and personal value items. A path model depicting retail career
preference and choice will be developed, using a structural equation
modeling technique, and will be tested by the SPSS/LISREL 7 program.
The influence of structural and developmental variables on socialization
agents, values, and retail career preferences and choices will
also be examined using a series of MANOVAs and ANOVAs.
The results of this study will assist the retail industry and
retail educators in marketing retailing as a career option more
effectively as well as facilitate the identification of individuals
who are more likely to remain committed to the retailing profession.
This study will also contribute to theories of career preferences
and choices.
HISPANIC AND NATIVE AMERICAN ADOLESCENTS: AN EXPLORATORY STUDY
OF THEIR APPROACH TO SHOPPING. S. Shim, and K. Ghert.
Division of Retailing Consumer Studies. University of Arizona,
Tucson, AZ 85721. Project completed. Funded by Agricultural Experiment
Station.
This study investigates the role of ethnicity as a determinants
of adolescents' approach to shopping and the factors ultimately
related to consumer socialization. a total of 1,846 respondents
were classified into three groups based on their ethnicity: Hispanic,
Native American and White. Multivariate and univariate analyses
of covariance and chi-square analyses revealed that the three
adolescent groups differed (albeit slightly) in terms of their
approach to shopping and socialization variables.
Retailing and public policy implications are delineated with special
reference to Native American and Hispanic adolescents.
DETERMINANTS OF SMALL BUSINESS GROWTH AMONG HISPANIC- OWNED
BUSINESSES: THE ORGANIZATIONAL LIFE CYCLE MODEL.
S. Shim, S. and M.A, Eastlick. Division of Retailing Consumer
Studies. University of Arizona, Tucson, AZ 85721. On-going project.
Funded by U.S. Hispanic Chamber of Commerce.
The general lack of information regarding Hispanic-owned small
businesses, coupled with their rapid emergence on the economic
scene, has created an urgent need for research designed to yield
results directly applicable to small Hispanic firms. Using the
small business growth model as a theoretical framework, this study
proposes to examining business and owner factors related to each
of the five stages of business growth (existence, survival, success,
take-off, and maturity). Perceived problems and needs of Hispanic-owned
small businesses will also be assessed for each stage. Data will
be collected via survey questionnaires mailed to 3,000 U.S. Hispanic
Chamber of Commerce (USHCC) members who own a retail or service-related
business located in the major cities with a large Hispanic population
in five states.
The results of the study will be applied toward improving existing
programmatic efforts and in developing new programs directed toward
Hispanic-owned small businesses to evaluate problems and matching
solutions. The study will also enhance the base of theoretical
knowledge in studying small business growth.
PARENTS USE OF CLOTHING, SUNSCREENS, AND SUN AVOIDANCE TO PROTECT
THEIR PRESCHOOL CHILDREN FROM UV-RAYS. K.L. Hatch. Retailing
and Consumer Studies, University of Arizona, Tucson, AZ 85721.
Funded by Arizona Agricultural Experiment Station. Work in progress.
The purposes of this project are a) to describe the types and
frequency of use of recommended sun-protective practices by parents
of preschool children, primarily for limiting sun exposure of
their preschool children and b) to investigate what beliefs and
attitudes influence the extent to which sun protection is practiced.
A questionnaire structured according to the Health Belief Model
was developed and data is currently being collected.
Results will be useful in development of effective messages to
parents of preschool children about the role they can play in
safe guarding their children from skin damage, including skin
cancer.
A QSAR STUDY OF SELECTED AZO AND ANTHRAQUINONE DISPERSE DYES.
P. Magee, , (BIOSAR Research Project of Vallejo, CA) and K.
Hatch, Retailing and Consumer Studies, University of Arizona,
Tucson, AZ 85721. Work in progress.
The purpose of this study is to investigate the structure/contact
allergenicity relationship of a selected group of azo and anthraquinone
disperse dyes half of which are known contact allergens and half
with no history of causing contact allergy. The structures of
27 disperse dyes, all of them being red or blue, were obtained.
QSAR analyses has been completed. Statistics have not been completed.
Results will assist in understanding why some dye molecules are
contact allergens and others with closely related structures are
not.
A STUDY OF THE PERMEATION OF DISPERSE DYES USING RAT SKIN AS
A MODEL MEMBRANE IN IN VITRO DIFFUSION CELL SYSTEM (PHASE I).
E. W. Smith, and G. Morar , (School of Pharmaceutical Sciences,
Rhodes University, South Africa) and K. L. Hatch, . Retailing
and Consumer Studies, University of Arizona, Tucson, AZ 85718.
Study in progress.
The purpose of the first phase of this project was to investigate
the diffusion of Disperse Blue 3, Disperse Red 1, and Disperse
Blue 56 through hairless rat skin. Objectives were to quantify
the amount of dye transferred and to correlate quantity with allergic
contact dermatitis potential. The receptor chamber of a diffusion
cell was filled with saline solution, rat skin was placed with
the stratum corneum (SC) facing the donor chamber, and a saturated
solution of dye in saline was placed in the donor chamber. Samples
of the receiving solution were withdrawn at 10-minute intervals,
absorbance was measured using UV spectroscopy at its wavelength
of maximum absorption, and the sample solution returned to the
chamber. Each experiment lasted four hours and was repeated three
times. Preliminary results show statistically significant differences
between dyes in amount of dye transferred, length of time before
diffusion begins (lag time), and diffusion rate through the skin.
The entire experiment is being repeated prior to release of specific
results.
The significance lies in greater understanding of why some dyes
have greater potential to cause allergic contact dermatitis than
others.
University of California, Davis
Department of Environmental Design
Design Program: Textile Arts and Costume Design
Davis, California 95616-8585
Phone: (916) 752-6223
Fax: (916) 752-1392
CREATIVE USES OF INDUSTRIAL WEAVING SOFTWARE AND POWER LOOMS AS
MEANS OF EXPRESSION. E. DuBois, Textile Arts and Costume Design,
Department of Environmental Design, University of California,
Davis, Davis, CA 95616.
Designing for the woven fabric industry has been radically changed
since the use of computers as a design tool and an interface with
power looms. While most artist/designers do not have access to
industrial software and power equipment, twelve studio weavers
who are also teachers were invited by Philadelphia College of
Textiles and Science to participate in the Visiting Artists Jacquard
Project. As one of the invited artists in 1995, my research consisted
in designing and producing a series of woven fabrics using the
advanced Jacquard technology available through this Project. The
woven images bring together elements from Taoist philosophy, patterns
in nature, and textile structures. They refer to the unseen forces
that exist in every aspect of nature and being, from microscopic
to macroscopic, especially the wave-like patterns that express
the hidden movement of energy and the dynamics of change. To produce
the fabric, images from my slide lecture "Weaving and Relatedness"
were scanned into the computer, simplified and composed graphically,
converted into technical data about thread interlacement and loom
control, and woven on the power Jacquard loom. The series of art
fabrics generated by this process have been exhibited and are
scheduled for future exhibition.
COMPUTER WEAVING WITH INDUSTRIAL MATERIALS. E. Debois,
Textile Arts and Costume Design, Department of Environmental Design,
University of California, Davis. Davis, CA 95616.
Fiber content and characteristics form the basis for woven fabrics
and,along with weave structures, determine the qualities of the
fabrics and their appropriateness for end use. This research uses
a computer-driven dobby loom to weave a series of fine, light
fabrics from industrialmaterials such as copper wire and spun
paper. The project explores the use of recycled materials, and
end uses in cabinetry, free-standing screens and art fabrics.
GANG IDENTITY AND CLOTHING STYLE, J. Hethorn, Textile Arts
and Costume Design. Department of Environmental Design, University
of California, Davis, Davis, CA 95616. Funded by the Agricultural
Experiment Station.
The focus of this project is on gang identity and adolescent clothing
choices. As gang violence increases in urban as well as rural
areas, communities are developing suppression and intervention
strategies in attempts to curb the spread of violence and gang
membership. Dress codes and uniforms are increasingly posed as
solutions in schools across the country with the intent of improving
campus safety. These actions have increased public awareness,
as well as the need for the information gained from this research.
Data collection is conducted in cities in California and the Midwest.
An image database is being developed, currently containing approximately
500 images. Analyzing the images by image content is an activity
that is facilitated by a collaboration with IBM, testing software
that includes the capability to sort by color, shape, texture,
and categories. In April, a seminar was held: "Gang Identity
and Identity - Sharing Perspectives, Seeking Solutions".
It was attended by over 80 people from law enforcement, schools,
and community based organizations.
This research benefits many groups: law enforcement, schools,
community organizations, in understanding the meanings expressed
through adolescent clothing choices. Especially in the area of
gang identity, this understanding can have a role in violence
prevention.
HUMAN PHYSIOLOGICAL AND PERCEPTUAL RESPONSE TO THE TEXTILE-
SKIN INTERFACE. J. Hethorn, as a part of the W-175 regional
research project, along with researchers from: Colorado, Iowa,
Minnesota, New York, Oregon, Ohio, New Mexico, Washington, Wyoming.
Funded by the Agricultural Experiment Station.
The focus of the project this year (for objective three) has been
on connecting the problem solving processes in product development
and testing to the findings from objectives one and two: subject's
physiological and perceptual responses to the experience of feeling
fabrics against the skin. Through focus group interviews, we have
begun to identify the problems that older women experience as
they use textile and apparel products. We have found an overwhelming
concern with comfort and fit among this group. By using recent
data relative to standardizing sizing for women over age 55 we
will develop product prototypes and test them, to see if the resulting
fit will be improved. We have been developing an image database
of garments that have fitting problems. This has the potential
of being very helpful in the identification and classification
of specific characteristics of garments related to body shape.
The project is a result of a collaboration with IBM in the application
of image query software. In addition to being able to sort for
text, as in a traditional database, the software (Ultimedia Manager/2)
allows for sorting by image content features such as color, shape,
and texture.
This research benefits the process of product development, in
that resulting garments will better meet the needs of various
populations, specifically older women.
TRENDS IN SKIWEAR: VISUAL ANALYSIS OF DESIGN COMPONENTS. J.
Hethorn, Textile Arts and Costume Design, Department of Environmental
Design, University of California, Davis, Davis, CA 95616.
Through observations and interviews at ski resorts, data has been
collected that tracks trends in how skiers express their appearance
while skiing. In addition, information has been collected regarding
skiers preferences, likes, and dislikes about the ski clothing
available in the marketplace. Both aesthetic and performance criteria
are included. This information has been collected in an image
database and is being analyzed with the assistance of image query
software.
This research informs product development in skiwear. The methods
that are being developed in image analysis and content based query,
will also be important in trend analysis in other categories of
apparel product development.
NEW USES OF AGRICULTURAL PRODUCTS IN CONSTRUCTED TEXTILES.
G. Laky, Textile Arts and Costume Design, Department of Environmental
Design, University of California, Davis. Davis, CA 95616.
This project develops new, improved and/or alternative methods
of creating constructed textile designs utilizing tree prunings
from nut and fruit production as well as from park and street
tree trimming. The objective is to increase opportunities for
conversion of pruning waste to value-added products by expanding
available textile construction techniques appropriate to wood-plant
and branch-type material. Continuing research focused on doweling
techniques borrowed from furniture making processes not hitherto
used in constructed textile design resulting in various studies
and prototypes for this period. Other efforts included introduction
of a new tieing method and material employing cable ties from
the electronics field. Some works were developed employing pre-formed
curves. This approach bends the wood in a mold while it is green
and full of moisture. The dried branches maintain the form in
which they were bent. This, too, is a technique from furniture
fabrication. Several finished pieces based on these approaches
were exhibited and are scheduled for future exhibition.
THE LIFE AND DRESS OF RAJENDRA KUNVERBA, THE FORMER MARHARANI
OF KUTCH. V. Rivers, Textile Arts and Costume Design, Department
of Environmental Design, University of California, Davis. Davis,
CA 95616.
This project consists of interviews conducted over the past six
years with the Rajmata (formerly the Maharani, until her husband,
the Maharao's, death ) of Kutch. Items of dress belonged to her,
her husband, her grandfather, and grandmother. Placing in social
context some articles of dress collected from a royal family of
Northwest India. This project is largely biographical. On-going.
RECREATING TRADITIONAL NORTHWEST INDIAN EMBROIDERIES INTO MARKETABLE
CLOTHING AND HOUSEHOLD ITEMS. V. Rivers, Textile Arts and
Costume Design, Department of Environmental Design, University
of California, Davis. Davis, CA 95616.
Documenting Gujarat (India) clothing designers who re-manufacture
old folk embroideries into re-created items of dress. The designs,
contemporary adaptations of the traditional regional dress of
Gujarat called "chanya choli" outfits evoke a sentimental
or idealized generic "ethnic" look which is purchased
by young, upper-middle class urban dwellers. The designers cut
apart and destroy the original forms of the folk embroideries
to meet increasing fashion demands. On-going.
RECYCLING AND REMANUFACTURING CLOTHING. V. Rivers, Textile
Arts and Costume Design, Department of Environmental Design, University
of California, Davis. Davis, CA 95616.
Two surveys are in process. One interviews various types of thrift
stores to determine sources for obtaining and conditions of clothing
for sale. Second survey polls thrift store consumers to determine
preferences in clothing condition purchased, sewing skills, and
willingness to modify clothing purchases. Completion date: Fall,
1999.
AN IDENTIFICATION GUIDE TO FOLK EMBROIDERIES. V. Rivers,
Textile Arts and Costume Design, Department of Environmental Design,
University of California, Davis. Davis, CA 95616.
A large part of this project will come to fruition with the mounting
of a comprehensive exhibition of regional textiles and dress from
Northwestern India, to be held at the Museum for Textiles, Toronto,
Canada in Fall, 1997. In the future, I plan to publish a small
catalog on this research. On-going.
AN IDENTIFICATION GUIDE OF GOODS AND STYLISTIC VARIATIONS OF
REGIONAL EMBROIDERIES OF RAJASTHAN AND GUJARAT STATES, INDIA AND
THE SINDH THAR DESERT OF PAKISTAN. V. Z. Rivers, Textile Arts
and Costume Design, Department of Environmental Design, University
of California, Davis, Davis, CA 95616.
In the desert communities of Gujarat and Rajasthan states in north-west
India, mostly females embroidered articles of clothing, textiles
for household use, and animal decorations in distinct regional
styles which were immediately recognizable to others communicating
the place of origin. This language is rapidly disappearing for
a number of reasons-women no longer have time for such labor intensive
endeavors, and daughters are going to school or leaving villages
for other reasons, thereby curtailing what was at one time an
important female occupation. Other reasons for the disappearance
of the making and usage of traditional embroideries include shifting
preferences for western style goods, abandoning traditional dress
for "modern, more progressive" appearances which can
mean wearing a sari instead of a skirt, bodice and head covering.
Other long-time dynamics affecting embroidery styles include women
borrowing and being inspired by stitches and motifs from others,
nomadic and semi-migratory lifestyles, and marriage whereby women
carried with them their embroidery vocabularies to new communities.
The author's research attempts to build upon and augment excellent
field studies conducted by Vickie Elson (the Dowries of Kutch)
and Judy Frater in her various studies of the Rabari people of
Gujarat. The author plans to assemble an identification guide
which describes and depicts types of embroidered goods (local
names and uses), documents examples and distinguishes characteristics
by region/ community /caste of as many distinct embroidery styles
from Gujarat and Rajasthan as possible.
DOCUMENTING AHMEDABAD, GUJARAT (INDIA) CLOTHING DESIGNERS WHO
RE-MANUFACTURE OLD FOLK EMBROIDERIES INTO RECREATED ITEMS OF DRESS.
V. Z. Rivers, Textile Arts and Costume Design, Department
of Environmental Design, University of California, Davis, Davis,
CA 95616.
A study is being conducted examining the designs and contemporary
adaptations of the traditional regional dress of Gujarat called
"chanya choli. This style of dress evokes a sentimental or
idealized generic "ethnic" look which is purchased by
upper-middle class urban dwellers. The designers cut apart and
destroy the original forms of the original folk embroideries and
recreate a new garment. On-going project
PLACING IN SOCIAL CONTEXT SOME ARTICLES OF DRESS COLLECTED
FROM A ROYAL FAMILY OF NORTHWEST INDIA: V. Z. Rivers, Textile
Arts and Costume Design, Department of Environmental Design, University
of California, Davis, Davis, CA 95616.
This project consists of interviews conducted over the past five
years with the Rajmata (formerly the Maharani, until her husband,
the Maharao's, death ) of Kutch. Items of dress belonged to her,
her husband, her grandfather, and grandmother. This project is
largely biographical. On-going project.
ART-TO-WEAR. J.C. Stabb, Department of Environmental Design,
Textile Arts and Costume Design, University of California, Davis,
Davis, CA 95616
The focus of this project is on the creative and technical processes
used by wearable artists in the United States in the late 20th
century. The objective is to increase the understanding of the
creative processes used by artists making one-of-a-kind garments
and their adaptation of traditional textiles and construction
techniques. Many artists have expanded these methods to include
highly innovative uses of materials and processes enabling them
to create unique and original textile art for the body. Surveys
of work by specific artists working in dyed and printed silk and
other natural fibers, found objects and materials, and recycled
materials are being conducted. Methods and processes are described
and representative examples documenting creative work are being
collected and disseminated through written articles and exhibition
reviews. On-going project.
This research benefits educational programs that focus on textile
arts and costume/clothing design, artists who are currently practicing
wearable art design, as well as manufacturers who seek inspiration
from the "laboratories" of singular artists. This information
also benefits retailers, gallery dealers, and museum curators
in understanding and selecting merchandise in this category of
consumer products.
Colorado State University
Design, Merchandising, & Consumer Science
314 Gifford Bldg.
Fort Collins, CO 80523
Phone: (970) 491-1629
Fax: (970) 491-7252
RURAL BUSINESSES: AN EVALUATION OF CHANNEL MEMBERS' SATISFACTION
WITH ENHANCED MARKETING STRATEGIES. M.C. Bickle, A. Kotsiopulos,
K. Williams. Design, Merchandising, and Consumer Sciences. Colorado
State University, Ft. Collins, CO 80523. Ongoing project. Funded
by Colorado State University Agriculture Experiment Station.
The purpose of this study was to develop and test four methods
of marketing rural manufactures' products to small retailers nationwide.
Methods evaluated included (1) a lower cost computer generated
video, (2) higher cost professionally produced video, (3) lower
cost, non-commercial photo catalogue, and (4) a higher cost desktop
printed, illustrated catalogue. Results of the study revealed
significant differences among groups' satisfaction and perceived
effectiveness of each marketing tool.
Rural producers benefit by obtaining additional avenues for selling
merchandise nationwide without the expense (time and money) associated
manufacturing. Retailers benefit by receiving information on products
not readily available in their location. They also receive information
regarding product benefits and alternative methods of displaying
and selling value-added merchandise.
QUANTITATIVE AND QUALITATIVE RESEARCH METHODS: APPLICATION
TECHNIQUES FOR INTEGRATING TYPES OF DATA ANALYSIS. M.C. Bickle
and M. Eckman. Design, Merchandising, and Consumer Sciences. Colorado
State University, Ft. Collins, CO 80523. Ongoing project. Funded
by the College of Applied Human Sciences, Colorado State University.
The purpose of this study was to examine methods of using quantitative
and qualitative data analysis. The quantitative analysis consisted
of Structural Equation Modeling techniques by using AMOS software
package. Qualitative analysis was conducted through the use of
open-ended statements. Hispanic and non-Hispanic consumers' shopping
orientations, preferred store characteristics, and store patronage
were examined.
Retailers benefit by receiving information on two levels regarding
consumer patronage. By using both types of data analysis (quantitative
and qualitative), information that may be missed by one type of
data will be avoided. The large sample of Hispanic consumers will
also add vital information regarding this large target market.
NORTH AMERICAN FREE TRADE AGREEMENT: THE INFLUENCE ON SMALL
AND MEDIUM MANUFACTURES. P. A. Setla (University of Detroit-
Mercy) and M.C. Bickle. Design, Merchandising, and Consumer Sciences.
Colorado State University, Ft. Collins, CO 80523.
The purpose of this study was to examine Michigan's small and
medium manufacturers' attitudes and actions related to the North
American Free Trade Agreement. Fifty-eight executives were surveyed.
Data analysis is in the early stages.
SPENDING PATTERNS OF PLUS-SIZE APPAREL CATALOG SHOPPERS: A
PROFILE. M. C. Bickle and S. Shim (University of Arizona).
Design, Merchandising, and Consumer Sciences. Colorado State University,
Ft. Collins, CO 80523.
The purpose of this study is to classify plus-size apparel catalog
shoppers as heavy or non-heavy dollar volume purchasers and to
analyze differences between the groups in terms of demographics,
shopping orientations, quantity of plus-size apparel items purchased,
and overall satisfaction with catalog services. Multivariate and
univariate analysis of variance revealed heavy purchasers to be
more fashion-conscious catalog patrons credit card users, more
likely to purchase greater quantities of apparel through catalogs,
and be less be less satisfied with local shopping facilities.
Implications of this study may yield a more realistic and comprehensive
understanding of plus-size consumers' wants and attitudes toward
apparel. Strategies may then be employed to assist designers,
manufacturers, and retailers to capture a larger portion of this
profitable market.
EMPLOYEE COMMITMENT: AN EXAMINATION OF THE HOTEL INDUSTRY.
S. Gregory (Food Science and Human Nutrition), M. Bickle (Design,
Merchandising and Consumer Sciences, and K. Smith (Food Science
and Human Nutrition). Colorado State University, Ft. Collins,
CO 80523.
The purpose of this research was to assess the level of employee
satisfaction and distinguish the type of commitment identified
by respondents. Employees surveyed included 5,500 hourly employees
and 886 salaried employees. Multiple stepwise regression revealed
significant predictors of employee commitment and satisfaction.
Implications of this study may yield a more comprehensive understanding
of employees in the hotel industry. Based on these results, strategies
and tactics may be identified for maintaining and actively committed
employee base and become an employer of choice.
EFFECT OF NATURAL AND SYNTHETIC FIBERS AND MOISTURE CONTENT
ON STRATUM CORNEUM HYDRATION. B. Cameron (University of Wyoming),
M. J. Dallas, B. Brandt & D. Brown (University of Wyoming). Design,
Merchandising and Consumer Sciences, Colorado State University,
Fort Collins, CO 80523. Manuscript submitted to Textile Research
Journal. Funded in part through W-175, Human Physiological and
Perceptual Responses to the Textile-Skin Interface.
The effect of natural and synthetic fibers and film, saturated
and dry, on transepidermal evaporative water loss (TEWL) from
the stratum corneum (SC) was investigated. Sixteen fabrics which
differed by fiber type and fabric structure were placed on the
volar forearm of 35 female subjects in a dry state (standard moisture
regain) and a wetted state (saturation). Each fabric was in place
for 40 minutes before TEWL was measured. Measurements of TEWL
on a predetermined skin site did not vary significantly from the
beginning of the test period to the end of the test period which
was 68 minutes in the controlled conditioned environment. Placement
of dry fabrics over the skin did not significantly affect the
hydration level of the stratum corneum though all did increase
the level slightly. Saturated wool and cotton fabrics significantly
hydrated the stratum corneum when levels were compared to either
normal skin or skin covered by dry fabrics. Of the seven synthetic
fiber fabrics tested in a wetted state, three (acrylic, PTFE,
and spun nylon) significantly increased the hydration level of
the stratum corneum. These three fabrics and the natural fiber
fabrics had comparable wetted moisture content. Fabric structure
may have a role in the amount of moisture a fabrics hold and warrants
further investigation.
FABRIC-CAUSED DIFFERENCE IN HUMAN SKIN TEMPERATURE AND HYDRATION.
D. M. Zheng. Design, Merchandising and Consumer Sciences, Colorado
State University, Fort Collins, CO 80523. Master's Thesis completed
1995. M. J. Dallas & B. Brandt, Co-advisors. Funded in part through
W-175, Human Physiological and Perceptual Responses to the Textile-Skin
Interface.
Human health and wellness are significantly influenced by textiles
worn. Fabric greatly affects an individual's skin hydration status,
skin temperature, and thus skin comfort. In this research, eight
different fabrics, each tested both dry and wet were put on 18
female subject's forearms for taking readings of WE (water evaporation)
and skin temperature. The eight fabric samples were: polyester/cotton
plain weave, cotton knit, cotton twill, polyethylene nonwoven,
PTFE nonwoven, acrylic plain weave, wool twill and nylon knit.
Tape and an occlusive plastic dome were used to hold the fabric
swatches onto the skin of the volar forearm. Both treatments (dry
and wet) of all eight fabrics were applied to each subject and
the untreated skin was measured as a control. Among the eight
fabrics polyester/cotton, cotton twill, polyethylene and acrylic
had higher skin hydration for the dry treatment. For the wet treatment,
cotton knit, cotton twill, PTFE and wool had higher skin hydration
readings. Skin temperature readings after removal of the eight
fabrics were similar for each treatment and between the two treatments.
Results from the statistical analysis showed that: 1) there were
statistically significant differences among the eight fabrics
for skin hydration readings; 2) there was a significant difference
between the two treatments for skin hydration readings, but not
for the skin temperature readings. The interaction between treatments
and fabrics types for skin hydration was also significant; 3)
there was no simple relationship between skin hydration readings
and the air permeability of the fabrics, or between skin temperature
readings and the air permeability.
COMPARISON OF BARRIER FABRICS: EFFECT ON SKIN HYDRATION.
B. Brandt & M. J. Dallas. Design, Merchandising and Consumer Sciences,
Colorado State University, Fort Collins, CO 80523. Abstract submitted
to 1996 ITAA Annual Meeting. Research funded in part through W-175,
Human Physiological and Perceptual Responses to the Textile-Skin
Interface.
In this study, barrier fabrics used in protective clothing for
clean environments were examined using three predictors of comfort:
skin wetness/hydration levels, moisture vapor transfer, and air
permeability. The five fabrics tested in the study included both
disposable and reusable fabrics and represented diversity in fiber
type and fabric structure. Fabrics included: antistatic polyester
woven (Chemstat 909A); polyester woven (Maxima); 50/50 polyester/cotton
blend woven (Barrier Supreme); spunbonded polyethylene nonwoven;
polyurethane laminate. Each fabric, in the dry state (moisture
regain) and wetted (saturation) was applied to skin on the subject's
volar forearm at a predetermined site for 40 minutes. Prior to
applying the fabrics, the subject's skin hydration was determined
by measuring transepidermal evaporative water loss (TEWL) from
the skin's surface. Fabrics were tested to determine water vapor
transmission (MVT), air permeability, fabric moisture content,
thickness and fabric weight using standard procedures. Skin hydration
differences were statistically significant among the five fabric
and between the two treatments. Results indicated that when dry
fabrics were placed on the skin, only the polyurethane laminate
reported a significant difference in skin hydration from the skin
at normal hydration. Fabric geometry appeared to have affected
skin hydration when fabrics were at standard moisture regain.
The laminate, which had significantly higher skin hydration for
the dry treatment was the heaviest and thickest fabric in the
study and reported the lowest measurements for air permeability
and MVT. For the wet treatment, when Chemstat, the Barrier Supreme
and laminate fabric were placed on the skin, the skin became significantly
more hydrated. Fabric moisture content was the important property
affecting skin hydration in the wet treatment. Of the five fabrics
studied, all three fabrics which significantly hydrated the skin
in the wetted state also contained the greatest amount of water
at saturation.
VISUAL AND TACTILE DESCRIPTIONS OF APPAREL TEXTILES IN SPECIALTY
MAIL-ORDER CATALOGS. M. Swift. Design, Merchandising and Consumer
Sciences, Colorado State University, Fort Collins, CO 80523. Master's
thesis in progress. M. J. Dallas. Funded in part through W-175,
Human Physiological and Perceptual Responses to the Textile-Skin
Interface.
This study analyzed descriptions of tactile perceptions for apparel
used in mail-order apparel catalogs and investigated relationships
between apparel textile descriptions and catalog usage. The objectives
this research were: (1) determine terms used to describe tactile
perceptions of apparel sold through printed media, and (2) assess
gender, fiber and garment differences for term usage between and
among catalogs. A cross seasonal representation of four different
specialty mail-order catalogs oriented primarily to women's, men's
and unisex apparel were used. Data collected were all terms that
appeared related to tactile perceptions of the apparel fabric
and not garment construction and fit. Garment, fiber and fabric
types for each item were also recorded All items that did not
have tactile descriptions were deleted from the final data coding
and analysis. Through content analysis, descriptive terms and
phrases were categorized as: 1) tactile 2) name of fiber or fabric
3) visual 4) extended inferences 5) fabric or garment construction
6) intrinsic qualities 7) adjectives 8) comfort properties. Two
coders worked independently on the original list of descriptions
and then reviewed the coding for discrepancies. There were approximately
thirty four different terms of disagreement that were discussed
and resolved.
Statistical analysis of the data was done using the SPSS statistical
software. Descriptive and chi-square data statistics were completed.
Descriptions for 1,469 individual garments were coded and yielded
3,470 descriptive terms. Categorization results were fabric or
garment construction terms (28%), fiber/fabric name (26%), tactile
terms (16%), intrinsic qualities (12%), visual (6%), extended
inferences (4%), adjectives (5%), and comfort properties (3%).
For these catalogs, cotton was the most used fabric for garments
and was predominately described using tactile descriptions relating
to fabric/fiber construction terms or name versus tactile descriptions
that describe touch or feel of the fabric. Silk, found in nine
percent of the garments, was most frequently described by its
intrinsic qualities. Lycra, wool, and rayon were most frequently
described by the fiber/fabric name. It appears that catalog descriptions
rely on consumer knowledge of textiles to convey tactile perceptions
rather than actual descriptions of the tactile qualities of the
fabric.
EFFECTS OF FIBER TYPE AND WEAVE STRUCTURE ON THE DURABILITY
OF LINING FABRICS. H. Kippschull. Design, Merchandising and
Consumer Sciences, Colorado State University, Fort Collins, CO
80523. Master's thesis completed 1996. B. Brandt, Advisor.
A controlled laboratory experiment was used to identify differences
in durability of lining fabrics. Twenty different fabrics were
tested, representing five fiber types and four weave structures,
for abrasion resistance, breaking strength, resistance to yarn
slippage and tear strength. Basic fabric characteristics were
also analyzed for their effect on durability. Comparison of the
durability results were made to ASTM standard performance specifications
for woven flat lining fabrics. Significant differences in durability
were found among fabrics of different fiber types. There were
also significant differences in durability among fabrics of different
weave structures. Both fiber type and weave structure were found
to interact and effect durability. The fabric characteristics
that were found to play an important role in increasing a lining
fabric's durability were fabric count and fabric thickness. Seven
of the lining fabrics analyzed did not meet ASTM minimum specifications
for breaking strength; five did not meet minimum specifications
for resistance to yarn slippage, and one fabric did not meet the
minimum tear strength specification. Recommendations were made
to both manufacturers and consumers based on the results of this
study.
MOISTURE VAPOR TRANSMISSION RATED OF SELECTED WATERPROOF/ BREATHABLE
FABRICS: EFFECTS OF PERSPIRATION, STOVE FUEL, INSECT REPELLENT,
AND REFURBISHMENT. R. Ernster. Design, Merchandising and Consumer
Sciences, Colorado State University, Fort Collins, CO 80523. Master's
thesis completion 1996. B. Brandt, Advisor.
Evaporative cup moisture vapor transmission (MVT) tests were performed
on three different types of waterproof/breathable (WB) fabrics--Avalanche,
Gore-Tex and Ultrex-- to examine the effects of perspiration,
insect repellent (DEET), stove fuel and subsequent refurbishment.
Face and back applications of the DEET and stove fuel were also
performed for comparative purposes. Specimens were tested for
the MVT rate as untreated samples, after application of the chemical
treatments, and again after laundering. Both the face and back
applications of the DEET had the greatest impact on the MVT rate
of the Ultrex fabric. The MVT rates of the Ultrex samples increased
after application and then returned to almost exactly the same
MVT rate as was observed in the untreated sample. Subsequent refurbishment
did restore the original MVT of the fabric. The significant finding
related to the Avalanche was an increase in the MVT rate after
refurbishment. This increase may be attributed to the interaction
of the water and the hydrophilic polymer chains present in the
laminate, and was not attributed to any interaction of the chemical
exposure. Due to the wide variance of the untreated Gore-Tex MVT
rates, significant differences due to the application of the DEET
and stove fuel were attributed to the inherent differences in
the fabrics and not due to the interaction of the chemicals. Significant
findings from the application of the perspiration were rejected
due to environmental conditioning errors occurring during the
MVT testing procedure.
PANT DESIGN AND EVALUATION FOR THREE WOMEN, AGED 65 AND OLDER:
A CASE STUDY. M. Schroeder. Design, Merchandising and Consumer
Sciences, Colorado State University, Fort Collins, CO 80523. Master's
thesis completed 1995. M.J. Dallas and D. Sparks, Co-Advisors.
Funded in part through W-175, Human Physiological and Perceptual
Responses to the Textile-Skin Interface.
The purpose of the research was to design prototype "everyday"
pants for three active women, aged 65 and older, with small, medium,
and large frame sizes in accordance with the consumer's preferences.
The prototype pants were based on muslin trouser drafts utilizing
American Society of Testing and Materials (ASTM) newly established
sizing standards for women ages 55 and older that corresponded
closest to the measurements of the subjects. Fit and wear testing
were conducted . The "exploratory case study method"
was utilized to develop the conceptual framework for the study.
This method involved conducting personal interviews to solicit
preferences concerning pants, satisfaction with ready-to-wear,
and shopping habits. Direct observations of fit also were made
during a shopping excursion. The "functional design process"
was employed for the development of the prototype pants. The trouser
drafts in muslin, based on ASTM sizes, required alterations in
the waist, the hips, and the crotch before the sloper could be
used to develop the stylized prototype pants. Also, it was more
difficult to choose the correct ASTM size for the medium and large
frame size women who tended to fall between sizes. Of the three
subjects, none had the same shape or posture, though most had
a high hipline position, due to a prominent abdomen. One subject
had very flat buttocks and the other two were more rounded. All
subjects were open to new styles in pants, but preferred a duplication
of pants already in their wardrobes. Thus, the prototype pants
were variations of the trouser with partial or full elastic waists.
Two women chose a front hip style pocket. One woman chose a style
with stitched creases down the center of each leg. The women and
a panel of professionals rated the fit differently. The researcher
recommended further testing of the newly developed ASTM sizing
standards.
CATEGORIZATION OF FABRICS: TACTILE AND VISUAL PERCEPTIONS.
M.J. Dallas, Colorado; S. Lennon, Ohio; C. Salusso, Washington
; and R. Smitley, New Mexico. 1997. W-175, Agricultural Experiment
Station supported research. Manuscript in progress.
Textile and clothing researchers have become interested in the
way in which people visually categorize forms or items of dress
to assess the differences in variables which affect perception
(e.g., stimulus variables, perceiver variables, and context variables).
From an applied perspective, human perceptual response to the
textile / skin interface is an important factor guiding judgments
of comfort, warmth, fabric prickle, and skin wetness. Information
regarding factors that affect such judgments have important practical
implications for manufacturers of apparel worn next to the skin.
Although a considerable body of research exists which has investigated
perceptions of fabric hand, few research studies have examined
how people categorize or classify fabrics. Thus, the objective
of this research was to investigate individuals' perceptual responses
to a variety of fabric swatches based on their tactile or visual
and tactile sensations. Student volunteers (N = 270) from one
midwestern and three western states participated. Subjects individually
sorted 60 fabric samples into groups "according to the way
the fabric feels to you" based on tactile-only (non-viewing)
or visual and tactile (viewing) sensations. The sorting data were
analyzed using cluster analyses; results were interpreted qualitatively.
Four clusters best represented the data for viewers based on context
of use: evening wear; next to the skin fabrics, such as terry,
fleece, shearling, satin; everyday wear; and special function.
Three clusters represented the data for non-viewers: thick, soft,
textured fabrics with a tactile relationship; velvet by itself
for a tactile difference; and multi-purpose fabrics not differentiated.
Viewers differentiated more than non-viewers and were influenced
by both visual and tactile sensations.
OLDER WOMEN'S CLOTHING: FOCUS GROUPS. M. J. Dallas, Colorado;
S. Ashdown, New York; J. Hethorn, California; and C. Salusso,
Washington. W-175 Agricultural Experiment Station Regional Research.
1997. Manuscript in progress.
Older women are younger in outlook and in activity level than
were their predecessors two generations ago. However, it is important
to recognize that there are diverse images of age and that health
and physical abilities will affect clothing interests and needs.
An exploratory study was undertaken by researchers from four universities
who were collaborators in the larger study, Human Physiological
and Perceptual Responses to the Textile-Skin Interface, funded
in part by W-175 and the Agricultural Experiment Station of various
states. The objective of this study was to investigate and identify
the problems older women experience with their clothing. Focus
group meetings were held in nursing homes, a church, a community
college, and a private home. Nursing home participants (N = 26)
were mostly over age 80 and often used wheelchairs and walkers
to move around the facilities. The remaining sample from three
other states (N=66) lived in their own house or apartment. Audio
and video tapes were transcribed and analyzed qualitatively using
content analysis of words and phrases. Important themes emerged
from the ten focus groups: body image, acquisition, retail clothing
characteristics, fabric care, comfort, most and least comfortable
item of clothing and favorite and least favorite garment, ease
of dressing, fit, sizing and labeling, style, and physical characteristics
of fabric. Key attitudes expressed concerned the understanding
of the body in clothing design. One older women summed the prevailing
attitude of many, "Unless manufacturers make clothes that
fit, we're not going to buy them."
EFFECT OF NATURAL AND SYNTHETIC FIBERS AND FILM AND MOISTURE
CONTENT ON STRATUM CORIUM HYDRATION IN AN OCCLUSIVE SYSTEM.
B.A. Cameron, Wyoming; M.J. Dallas and B. Brandt, Colorado and
D.M. Brown, Wyoming. W-175, Agricultural Experiment Station supported
research, 1997, Textile Research Journal, in press.
The effects of fabric composed of natural and synthetic fibers
and film on transepidermal water loss (TEWL) from the stratum
corneum (SC) using an occluded system was investigated. Sixteen
fabrics which differed by fiber type and fabric construction were
placed on the volar forearm of 35 female subjects in a dry state
(standard moisture regain) and a wetted state. Each fabric was
in place for 40 minutes before TEWL was measured. There was no
statistically significant difference in measurements of TEWL on
a control skin site from the beginning to the end of the 75 minute
test session in a controlled conditioned environment. Placement
of dry fabrics on the skin did not significantly affect the hydration
level of the SC, though all dry fabrics did increase the hydration
level slightly. Wetted wool and cotton fabrics significantly hydrated
the SC when levels were compared to either normal skin or skin
covered by dry fabrics. Of the seven synthetic fiber fabrics tested
in a wetted state, three (acrylic, PTFE, and spun nylon) significantly
increased the hydration level of the SC. These three fabrics and
the natural fiber fabrics had comparable wetted moisture content.
COMPARISON OF BARRIER FABRICS: EFFECT ON SKIN HYDRATION.
B. Brandt, M.J. Dallas. Poster session at 1996 ITAA meeting. Manuscript
in progress.
Barrier fabrics used in protective clothing for health care workers
were examined to determine what factors account for changes in
skin hydration as a result of fabrics of various constructions,
thickness and weight remaining in contact with the skin surface
under a non-occluded dome for a period of 40 minutes. Five fabrics
were placed on the volar forearm of 15 subjects in a dry state
(standard moisture regain) and a wetted state. Results indicated
that when dry fabrics were placed on the skin, the polyester laminate
reported a significant increase in SC hydration from skin at normal
hydration. The laminate was the heaviest and thickest fabric in
the study and reported the lowest air permeability and MVT. For
the wet treatment, polyester laminate and polyester/cotton fabrics
significantly increased the hydration of the SC. Both fabrics
contained the greatest amount of moisture in the wetted state.
No one fabric structural property dominated when identifying what
factors affected changes in SC hydration.
IMAGES OF NINETEENTH CENTURY WOMEN IN WESTERN FILM: EXAMINING
THE EARP WOMEN. B. Brandt & B. Oliver. Design, Merchandising
and Consumer Sciences, Colorado State University, Ft. Collins,
CO 80523. Paper presented at the Costume Society of America regional
meeting, 1996.
This study examines the clothing and appearance symbols of women
characters in western films to determine if the popular media
perpetuates nineteenth century stereotypes of western women. The
framework used is based on social cognition and a form of literary
analysis known characterization. Costume was regarded as working
for the cause of advancing and reinforcing the narrative by relaying
information about a person to the viewer. Early historians of
the American west described nineteenth century women in stereotyped
images and symbols: civilizer, help-mate, hell-raiser and prostitute.
Four western movies centered around Wyatt Earp and his life in
Tombstone, AZ were selected. Part of what defined Wyatt Earp and
his brothers in all four of the films, in addition to brotherhood
and violence, was their relationships to women in terms of courtship
and marriage. Content analysis was used for data gathering. Stereotypical
images of women did appear in the films; dress and appearance
symbols emphasized role portrayals as prostitute, civilizer and
help-mate. The films selected for this study represent solid male
leads which may have influenced how females were portrayed. Future
research will examine films that center around strong female leads,
examples of extraordinary heroines.
EVALUATIVE CRITERIA FOR FURNITURE CHOICE. M. Eckman, B.
Oliver. Design, Merchandising and Consumer Sciences, Colorado
State University, Ft. Collins, CO 80523. Funded by the USDA. Manuscript
submitted.
The objectives of this inter-country study were to identify and
compare criteria Canadian and U.S. consumers use when evaluating
furniture for purchase. The Engel, Blackwell, and Miniard (1993)
model of consumer decision-making was the conceptual framework.
Ten focus groups were conducted in two U.S. and three Canadian
cities; individuals who had shopped for or purchased furniture
within the past year participated. Focus group discussions assisted
in identifying the range of evaluative criteria for purchase decisions.
Data will provide information regarding decision making behavior
of furniture consumers useful for retailers and interior design
services.
COMMUNICATION OF EMPIRICAL KNOWLEDGE: AN INVESTIGATION OF READABILITY
OF RESEARCH IN TEXTILES AND APPAREL. B. Oliver, M.J. Dallas,
M. Eckman. Design, Merchandising and Consumer Sciences, Colorado
State University, Fort Collins, CO 80523. Funded by Fairchild
Publications. Manuscript submitted.
This study employs both objective and subjective testing to examine
readability and quality of research in textiles and apparel. Flesch
scores provided quantitative measure of the readability of passages
taken from published research in the field. U.S. active/reserve
and graduate student members of ITAA (n=208) completed subject-matter
specific questionnaires for the subjective portion of the study.
Responses to open-ended questions reveal that clarity, structure,
and terminology are most frequently mentioned when explaining
perceptions of readability while value and methods are concepts
closely related to definitions of journal quality. Readability
and quality are positively correlated (p.01) which is contrary
to findings in previous research. Time constraints facing today's
academic community are noted as the primary reason for the need
for published research to be readable and comprehensible.
SATISFACTION OF HISPANIC AND NONHISPANIC CONSUMERS REGARDING
RETAIL STORES, STORE ATTRIBUTES, PRODUCTS OFFERED. M. Bickle,
M. Eckman, A. Kotsiopulos. Design, Merchandising and Consumer
Sciences, Colorado State University, Ft. Collins, CO 80523. Funded
by a Colorado State University Diversity Career Enhancement Grant.
Ongoing project.
Building upon previous research by the authors, data were collected
from Hispanic and non-Hispanic consumers in the New York, San
Antonio, and Los Angeles areas. The purpose of the study was to
determine differences in satisfaction of stores patronized, shopping
orientations and shopping behaviors. Results of the study will
add to a limited body of factual information regarding the lucrative
Hispanic market. Strategies and tactics will be generated.
FEMALE SPECIALTY STORE CUSTOMERS: THE IMPACT OF ATMOSPHERICS
ON PURCHASING BEHAVIOR. M. C. Bickle, M. Eckman, and R. Kuo.
Design, Merchandising and Consumer Sciences, Colorado State University,
Ft. Collins, CO 80523. Manuscript submitted.
Retailers spend millions of dollars annually to enhance store
atmospherics. The purpose of this study was to examine apparel
chain store consumers' preferences for store atmospherics; the
effect of such preferences on perceptions of store atmospherics
and shopping behavior were also examined. A convenience sample
of 144 female consumers who had just finished shopping were surveyed.
Preferences for store atmospherics examined included: abundant
stock levels, soothing decor, ease of movement, music and aroma,
and upbeat environment. Perceptions of store atmospherics examined
included: ease of shopping, personal service, calming decor, sensory
cues, and enticing layout. Shopping behaviors examined included:
shopping frequency at the store, planned purchases, number of
items purchased, and amount of time and money spent in the store.
Stepwise regression analysis revealed that preferences for store
atmospherics affected consumers' perceptions of atmospherics;
perception in turn impacted shopping behavior. Results contribute
to theory and strategies concerning patronage behavior.
EMPLOYEE SATISFACTION AND COMMITMENT IN A LODGING ORGANIZATION.
S. R. Gregory, K. D. Smith (Department of Food Science and Human
Nutrition) and M. C. Bickle. Design, Merchandising and Consumer
Sciences, Colorado State University, Ft. Collins, CO 80523. Manuscript
submitted.
The research focuses on examining job satisfaction and commitment
to the organization (hotels). Recent restructuring, downsizing,
or right sizing of organizations are taken into consideration
when investing employee satisfaction with the employer. Strategies
and tactics for maintaining a satisfied and committed employee
base are generated.
STORE PATRONAGE OF HISPANIC VERSUS NON-HISPANIC CONSUMERS:
PHASE TWO. M. Eckman, M. Bickle, A. Kotsiopulos. Design, Merchandising
and Consumer Sciences, Colorado State University, Ft. Collins,
CO 80523. Funded by a Colorado State University Diversity Career
Enhancement Grant. Ongoing project.
The research is a continuation of an earlier study of higher income
Hispanic and non-Hispanic consumers residing in Denver, Colorado.
Data were collected from Hispanic and non-Hispanic consumers in
three cities--New York, San Antonio, and Los Angeles via a mailed
survey. Information on demographics, psychographics, products
purchased, store patronage, satisfaction with retailers, store
attribute preferences, shopping orientations, and use of information
sources was generated. Chi square, factor analysis, MANOVA, and
possibly path analysis will allow comparison of consumer behavior
of Hispanics and non-Hispanics. Results will contribute to a profile
of Hispanic consumers and to the development of retail strategies
to better meet the needs of this consumer group.
RETAIL STRATEGIES: A COMPARISON OF HISPANIC MALE AND FEMALE
CONSUMERS. M. Eckman, A. Kotsiopulos, M.C. Bickle. Design,
Merchandising and Consumer Sciences, Colorado State University,
Ft. Collins, CO 80523. Paper presented at 1996 ITAA Annual Meeting.
Funded by a Colorado State University Diversity Career Enhancement
Grant. Manuscript in progress.
Research compared higher income Hispanic males and females on
demographics, psychographics, shopping orientations, importance
of store attributes, use of information, and store patronage.
Systematic random sampling identified 5,000 Hispanic and non-Hispanic
higher income (>$30,001) consumers to whom surveys were mailed;
Hispanic respondents (140 males and 103 females) were the sample
for this study. Most subjects were 28-47, Catholic, married, college
educated, professionals who spoke English. Principal component
factor analysis with varimax rotation generated five activity,
seven opinion, four shopping orientation, and ten store attribute
factors. Controlling for country of origin, MANCOVA showed that
Hispanic males and Hispanic females differed on activities, shopping
orientations, store attributes, and store patronage but did not
differ on opinions or information sources. This is the first study
of higher income Hispanics by gender. Implications for retail
strategies were developed based on the results.
DRESS CUES OF FICTIONAL ATTORNEYS: A CHARACTERIZATION STUDY.
B. Oliver. Design, Merchandising and Consumer Sciences, Colorado
State University, Fort Collins, CO 80523. Paper presented at 1996
ITAA Annual Meeting.
The purpose of the research is to analyze dress and appearance
cues conveyed in novels about and written by male attorneys. The
framework for characterization is that proposed by Lennon and
Burns (1993). Fifty novels published since 1987 were read and
all passages that dealt with dress and appearance cues were analyzed
for content. Male attorneys were portrayed primarily in suits
although sole practitioners were sometimes described wearing sportcoats.
A dress code definitely existed for attorneys in these novels.
Four social-psychological concepts were examined in relation to
the passages: dress codes, attractiveness, power, and conformity.
Male attorneys were interviewed to determine their views of the
importance of dress in their role as attorney. Dress codes were
not seen as reality in the business world although conformity
in dress was important. In addition, dressing to show respect
for the court was viewed as a necessity for a male attorney.
CROSS-CULTURAL PROMOTIONS: A STUDY OF MESSAGE CONVEYED IN MAGAZINES
TARGETED TO VARIOUS PUBLICS. B. Oliver. Design, Merchandising
and Consumer Sciences, Colorado State University, Fort Collins,
CO 80523. Ongoing project.
Multiculturalism is becoming more important in the classroom and
in business as the country and world become more diverse. It is
essential to understand similarities and differences in various
cultures and ethnic groups in order to market products and services.
The purpose of this research is to gain an understanding of diverse
groups by studying advertising targeted to them. The framework
employed allows examination of 14 components within an advertisement
to determine the information conveyed and, therefore, deemed important
by the advertiser to the targeted group. Magazines selected include
those targeted to African-American adolescents and adolescents
in general; gay and heterosexual men; and Hispanic and non-Hispanic
women. Data have been gathered. Chi-square analysis will be run
to determine similarities and differences in communication.
PROPORTION IN WOMEN'S FASHIONABLE CLOTHING: 1945 TO 1995.
D. Saiki. Master's thesis. 1996. C. Makela and M.J. Dallas co-advisors.
Department of Design, Merchandising, and Consumer Sciences, Colorado
State University, Ft. Collins.
This study examines relationships among visual sections from the
top to the bottom and from the left to right side of fashionable
women's garments. The research questions explore 1) trends in
the horizontal and vertical proportion of women's fashionable
day and evening wear from 1945 to 1995 and 2) proportions most
used in women's fashionable day and evening wear. Data were collected
from Vogue magazine from 1945 to 1995. Results from analyzing
5,457 photographs indicate more common and specific trends in
vertical and horizontal proportions. Horizontal proportions found
in trends and the most common for day wear and evening wear were
50/50, 100/0 (one division), and 33/33/33. For evening wear 100/0
was more common than for day wear. Vertical proportion varied
more than horizontal proportion for day and evening wear. The
identification of proportions used in fashionable dress from 1945
to 1995 contributes to the understanding of fashion, its change
over time, and its relationship to society.
MADAMS OF MARKET STREET: THEIR CLOTHING AND THEIR LIVES.
J. Schulle. Master's Thesis. B. Brandt, Advisor; L. Carlson, Co-Advisor.
The objective of this study was to analyze the clothing worn by
high-class Denver prostitutes and madams in the late nineteenth
and early twentieth centuries to determine the relative importance
of clothing in the women's lives. The method used in the study
was a content analysis of primary source materials including photographs
of the women, newspaper articles, and other information such as
written notes of the interviews various authors conducted with
individuals who knew the madams. Several well known madams were
included as the sample. The women's personal lives were investigated
as were the types and styles of clothing they wore. It was discovered
that the women wore the most fashionable to the day. Many women
also wore trademark jewelry which they were rarely seen without.
MANUFACTURED FIBER CONSERVATION: A CAUSE FOR CONCERN. L. Ferreira.
Master's Thesis. B. Brandt, Advisor. L. Carlson, Co-Advisor. Data
collection in progress.
FEMALE SPECIALTY STORE CONSUMERS: THE IMPACT OF ATMOSPHERICS ON
PURCHASING BEHAVIOR. R. Kuo. Master's Thesis. M. Bickle, Advisor.
M. Eckman, Co-Advisor. Design, Merchandising and Consumer Sciences,
Colorado State University, Ft. Collins, CO 80523. Manuscript submitted.
The purpose of this study was to examine apparel chain store consumers'
preferences for store atmospherics; the effect of such preferences
of store atmospherics and shopping behavior were also examined.
A convenience sample of 144 female consumers who had just finished
shopping were surveyed. Principal Component Factor Analysis generated
five preference and five perception factors. Shopping behaviors
examined included shopping frequency at the store, planned purchases,
number of items purchased, and amount of money and time spent
in the store. Stepwise regression analysis revealed that preferences
for store atmospherics affected consumers' perceptions of atmospherics;
perceptions in turn impacted shopping behavior. Results contribute
to theory and strategies concerning patronage behavior.
GENERATION-X: VALUES HELD AND THOSE COMMUNICATED THROUGH THE MEDIA.
T. Sparks. Design, Merchandising and Consumer Sciences, Colorado
State University, Fort Collins, CO 80523. Master's Thesis. B.
Oliver, Advisor.
The purpose of this research was to ascertain values held by individuals
19 to 31 years of age, Generation-X. This group of consumers represents
a major share of the market, yet little empirical evidence has
been gathered to determine who they are or what they value. Most
information on this age group is anecdotal and provides a relatively
negative image of Generation-X. The Rokeach value scale was employed
in a questionnaire sent to 1000 individuals who met the age requirements
for the study. Advertising in two magazines specifically targeted
to Generation-X (Spin and Raygun) were analyzed to determine the
values marketers believed to be held by this group. Rank order
of values held by the sample and those values conveyed in advertising
were not equivalent. Marketers may be sending messages to this
consumer group that are not appropriate for their value orientation.
UNIVERSITY OF IDAHO
Margaret Ritchie School of Family and Consumer Sciences
Moscow, ID 82844
Phone: (208) 885-7664
Fax: (208) 885-5751
"THE GREAT EAST INDIA COMPANIES: DOCUMENTING TEXTILE HISTORY
IN SPITE OF THEM." S. L. Evenson. Presented at the ITAA
Annual Meeting. Pasadena, CA . October 19-21, 1995.
Abstract: The purpose of this paper was to describe the challenges
encountered and solutions developed to document the history of
Indian madras. Indian madras is a yarn-dyed, plain weave, cotton
checked or plaid fabric hand woven in South India almost exclusively
for export. For much of its 400 year trade history it was a very
profitable trade commodity used by the Portuguese, Dutch, and
English in exchange for both spice and slaves. Because the textile
trade was both lucrative and very competitive, there are few written
descriptions prescribing exact compositions of individual Indian
madras types. Such information was considered a trade secret.
In addition, Indian madras was known over time by several names
and additional confusion arises when one of these names may apply
to many types of cloth. To mitigate these research problems, I
took a step-by-step process that allowed me to develop an approximate
time line of which cloth names were used during what time periods.
Analysis of the results of this research strategy included redefinition
of the terms Guinea Cloths and Guinea Stuffs. Because the two
terms were long thought to be synonymous, early Indian madras
trade history was contradictory. This finding establishes the
earliest documented date of trade of two distinct cloths at 1620.
The trade history of Indian madras is a case study of shifting
patterns of exchange within the expanding realm of global trade
between the sixteenth and twentieth centuries. As a currency that
financed both the spice and slave trades, the results of this
research strategy demonstrate, in part, the significance of this
ubiquitous cotton cloth to the larger scheme of global culture
history.
THE MANUFACTURE OF INDIAN MADRAS IN SOUTH INDIA AND ITS EXPORT
TO WEST AFRICA: HANDWEAVING IN A GLOBAL MARKETPLACE. S. L.
Evensen. Presented at the ITAA Pre-Conference Workshop "Marketing
Soft Goods to the World: Challenges and Opportunities". Banff,
Alberta, Canada. August 1, 1996.
The purpose of this study is to describe the manufacture of Indian
madras cloth in South India and its trade to ports in West Africa.
Indian madras is a yarn-dyed, plain weave, cotton checked or plaid
fabric hand woven in South India almost exclusively for export.
Indian madras is known by several names, including Real Madras
Handkerchief, and is used by people all over the world, including
the Kalabari, a powerful trading group in the Niger Delta in the
eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. As middlemen between European
trading vessels and the people of the African interior, the Kalabari
amassed large quantities of exotic cloth. Of all the trade cloths
that passes through Kalabari hands, it was cloth from India that
came to have the greatest material significance. The donning of
and decoration with Indian madras for daily and ritual events
plays a crucial role in preserving, maintaining, and demonstrating
Kalabari ethnic identity within the larger nation state of Nigeria.
However, access to this important marker of ethnic identity is
threatened by Nigerian trade policy, which was developed in reaction
to international trade policies that favor global-scale, more
industrialized nations. In February 1994, a seminar and workshop
on "Real Madras Handkerchief: A Cross Cultural Trade Perspective"
was held in Madras India. One purpose of this event was to open
up communication among participants in the Indian madras manufacture
and trade pipeline. Discussion included how to alter the form
and/or use of Indian madras to render it more appealing to new
and larger markets. While the workshop itself was inconclusive,
ethical questions about the role of outsiders -- academics and
economic development experts -- emerged.
This study and the practical and ethical questions that come out
of it are currently used in a dress and culture course to highlight
the complexity, volatility, and dilemmas faced by manufacturers
and consumers of highly specialized textile products competing
for a continued place in th e global economy.
MONTANA STATE UNIVERSITY
Department of Health and Human Development
Herrick Hall
P.O. Box 173540
Bozeman, MT 59717-3540
Phone: (406) 994-3241
Fax: (406) 994-2013
APPEARANCE MANAGEMENT BEHAVIOR AND ADOLESCENTS. B.A. Tatarka,
H. Hunts, D. Haynes, P. Dennee, and S. Osborne. Ongoing project.
This project is an examination of how the media influences adolescents'sense
of body image and in turn how that sense of body image may or
may not influence adolescents to consume restrictive diets to
lose body weight or engage in appearance management behaviors.
When examining the influence of the media (media defined broadly
to include print media, television, radio, billboards, and the
Internet), it is clear that the influence of the media on teens
is phenomenal. The average American youth spends 900 hours in
school per year compared to 1,500 hours in front of the television
(Interesting TV Facts, 1997). A brief look at the print media
shows that between 60% and 70% of the top teen magazines are advertisements,
and that most of the ads are related to beauty (Bluejean Magazine,
1997). Understanding if and how the media is linked to eating
disorders and other appearance management behaviors is the crux
of the proposed project. Our hypothesis for this phenomena is
that the exposure to media entices teens to seek thinness as a
mechanism for combating feelings of inadequacy, to cope with peer
pressure, become popular, or to seek happiness. Other researchers
have had similar hypotheses; in fact Lewis (1997) reports that
women describe themselves as being less attractive and less satisfied
with their physical appearance after seeing female fashion models.
However, researchers in the past have mainly focused on adult
and college-aged subjects. The researchers will investigate the
influence of media on teens.
BODY-SELF RELATIONS, EXERCISE INVOLVEMENT, AND EXERCISE CLOTHING
ATTITUDE OF WOMEN IN EXERCISE PROGRAMS. B.A. Tatarka, Montana,
and M. J. Norton,Virginia. Paper presented at the 1996 ITAA meeting.
Manuscript in progress.
This research examined relationships among body-self relations,
level of exercise involvement, and exercise-clothing attitude
for women in regular exercise programs. Media projections of slender
and taut bodies, popularity of exercise programs, and sales of
exercise clothing and equipment have all been on the rise for
about 15 years. A fundamental premise of the framework for this
research is that through social comparison, individuals evaluate
their bodily selves in relation to others; they observe appearance
standards of reference groups and learn to engage in associated
appearance management behaviors, such as exercise and clothing
selection. One's attitudes toward certain clothing styles may
demonstrate her social self and symbolize her self-concept. Significant
results showed that level of exercise involvement was positively
related to appearance evaluation and to fitness evaluation and
orientation. These results raise questions about possible motivations
versus perceived outcomes of exercise as to appearance and fitness,
which our research was not designed to address. Exercise-clothing
attitude consistency was positively related to appearance evaluation,
to fitness evaluation and orientation, and to level of exercise
involvement; the first two relationships support the notion that
clothing styles symbolize the self concept of which body image
is an important part. As to the third relationship, clothing attitude
and exercise may be related if exercise is an appearance management
behavior as one strives to create an appearance consistent with
a socially-derived standard
TWO APPROACHES TO INDONESIAN DESIGN. B.A. Tatarka. Paper
presented at the Confluences: Fashioning Intercultural Perspective"
sponsored by ITAA and the Universite' de la Mode of Lyon. Manuscript
in progress.
Indonesia is comprised of more than 300 different ethnic groups
which inhabit 1,000 of its 13,000-island complex; however, despite
its cultural diversity, Indonesia is a nation with a specific
"image" reflecting a strategically planned look created
by the fashion industry (Arthur, et. al., 1995). A high value
has been placed on national unity, which has been achieved by
the development of both a national ideology and a national Indonesian
apparel image. The majority of Indonesian women wear the traditional
dress: a "kain," or skirt-wrapping, which is a cambric-
based batik cloth approximately 2.5 yards long; and a "kebaya",
a long-sleeved blouse/jacket worn over the kain (Achjadi, 1976).
As a participant in the 1995 Hawai'i International Program (HIP),
which is designed to provide education in the international textile
and apparel industry, I had the opportunity to explore many aspects
of Indonesia's apparel industry. The purpose of this presentation
is to discuss two current Java Indonesian designers and their
approaches to Indonesian design using traditional ethnic material.
Both designers showed respect for the Indonesian culture by following
the patterns of the kain and kebaya as the basis for their designs
and by primarily using traditional Indonesian colors; however,
evident deviations from the national apparel image included modernized
fashions reflecting a strong western influence, the use by one
designer of silk rather than the traditional cotton as a base
fabric for her batik designs, and various alterations of the basic
kain and kebaya patterns (e.g., alteration of the kebaya pattern
to give it the appearance of a short-sleeved tunic).
FASHION CHANGE RELATED TO MEN'S BOXER UNDERSHORTS IN SEARS
ANNUAL MERCHANDISE CATALOGS. B.A. Tatarka, Montana, and N.O.
Bryant, Oregon. Poster session at ITAA meeting. Manuscript in
progress.
This study analyzed the availability of men's boxer undershorts
after World War II (1946-1988), based on pictorial underwear illustrated
in Sears, Roebuck and Company merchandise catalogs. Content analysis
and seriation were used to study the categories of fiber content,
fabric structure, color, and style variations. Data were analyzed
using frequencies and relative frequencies. Results indicated
that there were differences in the frequency of a) fiber content,
b) color, and c) style variations of men's boxer undershorts.
All-cotton boxer undershorts were available more frequently than
undershorts of nylon, rayon, acetate or polyester/cotton blends.
Woven fabrics were used consistently more frequently than knit
fabrics throughout the time period. White boxer undershorts consistently
were available more frequently than any of the specific colors
offered throughout the time period. However, when all colors offered
in a given issue were combined, the "non-white" boxer
trend from 1972 through 1988 is evident. From 1950 through 1988,
with the exception of 1970 and 1976, the "all colors combined"
category accounted for fifty-seven percent or more of the colors
available.
OREGON STATE UNIVERSITY
Apparel, Interiors, Housing & Merchandising
224 Milam Hall
Corvallis, OR 97331-5101
Phone: (541)737-3796
Fax: (541) 737-0993
A COMPARISON OF REARFOOT STABILITY IN THREE WOMEN'S SHOE STYLES
WITH DIFFERENT HEEL DIMENSIONS. D. Engel. Apparel , Interiors,
Housing, and Merchandising. Oregon State University, Corvallis,
OR 97331-5101. Thesis. Project completed 1996. Advisor: N. O.
Bryant.
This study compared rearfoot stability in three women's shoe styles
with different heel dimensions: a flat shoe, a high narrow-heeled
shoe, and a high broad-heeled shoe. Women from the local business
community who had worn high heels for at least 16 hours per week
for the past year were recruited as subjects (n=28). Three-dimensional
kinematic data of subjects walking on a treadmill were collected
using the Qualisys MacReflex System. The following parameters
were measured: maximum pronation, pronation at heel strike, time
to maximum pronation, sstance time, and range of pronation. There
was a significant difference in rearfoot stability between the
high narrow-heeled shoe and the high broad-heeled shoe for both
maximum pronation and pronation at heel strike. But there was
no difference between these values for the high narrow- heeled
shoe and the flat shoe. Both shoed a maximum angle three degrees
larger than the high broad-heeled shoe. Significant differences
existed between the range of rearfoot motion for all three shoe
styles. Range of rearfoot motion was largest for the high narrow-heeled
shoe (7 degrees, SD = 3.3) and least for the flat shoe (4 degrees,
SD = 2.4) with the values for the high broad-heeled shoe (6 degrees,
SD = 2.4) falling in-between. No significant differences between
stance times or time to maximum pronation were found.
This study indicated that increasing the heel surface of a high-heeled
shoe significantly aids in reducing rearfoot range of motion.
Surprisingly, maximum pronation angle and pronation angle at heel
strike did not follow the same pattern. The question that arises
from these data is whether the maximum pronation angle is the
best way better representation of true rearfoot stability. Further
studies could investigate the relationship between rearfoot stability
and heel dimensions in women's shoes using a wider range of heel
dimensions and possible varying the heel materials.
CLOTHING DISPOSITION PRACTICES AND ATTITUDES: A CROSS-NATIONAL
EXPLORATION. S. Francis, N. Bryant, Y. Chang, H. Wang. Apparel,
Interiors, Housing, and Merchandising. Oregon State University,
Corvallis, OR 97331-5101 with C. Mumaw, Kathmandu Universtiy (Nepal),
K. Shim, Mokpo National Universtiy (S. Korea), S. L. Butler, Miami
University, H. Swedlund, South Dakota State University. Projected
completed 1997.
The goal of this study was to examine cross-national similarities
and differences in the disposal of used clothing, emphasizing
cultural factors that influence clothing disposition. An exploratory
multi-method approach was used. An international team of collaborators
collected information from 8 countries. Similarities and differences
in clothing disposition methods, motivations for clothing disposition,
the nature of the secondhand clothing market, and feelings about
wearing/purchasing/disposing of used clothing were observed. The
charitable organization system exists primarily in the U.S.; the
informal system of giving clothing to others exists in other countries
as does the thrift chic market. Feelings about clothing disposition
and using secondhand clothing seem to have cultural roots but
are also influenced by need and personal experiences.
The following propositions were generated: 1) methods of disposition
of used clothing in the U.S. differ from those of other countries;
2) motivations for clothing disposition depend of income/need;
3) feelings about clothing disposition vary according to disposition
method and motivation; 4) the secondhand clothing market is dichotomous
(expensive vintage/trendy apparel; and cheap clothing); and 5)
feelings about wearing/purchasing secondhand clothing depend on
need, experiences with secondhand clothing, and cultural factors.
UNIVERSITY AND INDUSTRY PARTNERSHIP: PACIFIC NORTHWEST APPAREL
AND TEXTILES CONSORTIUM. S. Loker University of Idaho; C.
Salusso Washington State University; C. Schactler, Central Washington
University; C. Jordan and N. Bryant, Apparel, Interiors, Housing,
and Merchandising. Oregon State University. Corvallis, OR 97331-5101.
Three-year Project 1997-2000. Funded by USDA.
The purpose of this project is to enhance undergraduate student
experiential learning through the development of a coordinated
university and industry partnership in the Pacific Northwest region.
The project will establish the Pacific Northwest Apparel and Textiles
Consortium (PNWC), through which students will: 1) participate
in a coordinated internship program with UI, CWU, OSU, WSU, apparel
and textile firms, and professional trade associations and 2)
access an annotated Electronic Resource Directory of apparel and
textile resources to facilitate the transition from university
to industry. The Electronic Resource Directory will include; a).
an Internship Opportunities Directory b). links and annotations
to guide exploration of world wide web sites, and c). annotations
of the character and location of other key educational resources.
Structural development of the PNWC, the Internship Opportunities
directory, and the electronic Resource Directory will take place
in year one. Implementation steps will be accomplished in year
two. Expansion of the PNWC membership, internship placements and
the Electronic Resource directory will occur in year three.
AUTHENTICITY OF MAKER: A CASE STUDY OF MADELEINE VIONNET'S WORK.
N. Bryant. Apparel, Interiors, Housing, and Merchandising.
Oregon State University, Corvallis, OR 97331-5101.
On-going research project.
APPAREL DESCRIPTIONS IN CATALOGS AND PERCEIVED RISK ASSOCIATED
WITH CATALOG PURCHASES. Brigitte Gaal. (1996). Masters thesis,
Oregon State University, Corvallis. Major Professor: Leslie Davis
Burns.
The purpose of the study was to investigate ways that information
within Norm Thompson catalog apparel descriptions can be presented
in order to increase the perceived ability to evaluate specific
garment characteristics and to decrease the amount of perceived
risk associated with catalog apparel purchases by a sample of
women in Oregon. The research proceeded in two phases: focus groups
and an experiment. Focus group information provided the basis
for a between-subjects, repeated measures experiment with two
independent variables: type of catalog apparel description (original
and altered) and whether or not subjects were exposed to a Norm
Thompson catalog cover page. Results indicated that subjects who
were exposed to the altered descriptions for two of the garments
perceived greater ability to evaluate the catalog description
information. Altered descriptions and exposure to the cover page
did not affect perceived risk. Focus group methodology proved
to be a better source of data for information related to catalog
descriptions.
THE EFFECT OF TEXTILE KNOWLEDGE ON CATEGORIZATION AND STEREOTYPING
OF TEXTILES. Mi-Jeong Choi (1996). Doctoral dissertation,
Oregon State University, Corvallis. Major Professor: Leslie Davis
Burns.
A Textile Knowledge Inventory (TKI) was developed and used in
two experiments. The first experiment investigated whether fabric
structure (FS) and level of textile knowledge (TK) affected categorization
of subjects' descriptions of fabric specimens. Subjects, 93 female
college students, completed a self-administered questionnaire
and the TKI. Fabric descriptions were content analyzed. Multivariate
Multi-sample Rank Sum Test found that categorization of subjects'
descriptions of fabrics differed as a function of FS and level
of TK. Descriptions of the woven fabric were more likely to be
classifed as "appearance" category and less likely to
be classified as "fiber content" and "texture"
categories than the knitted fabric. Descriptions by subjects with
lower TK were more likely to be classified as "appearance"
and less likely to be classified as "fabric name" than
subjects with higher TK. The second experiment investigated whether
level of TK, fiber content label information, and their interaction
caused differences in subjects' descriptions and evaluations of
a microfiber polyester fabric. 107 subjects received a self-administered
questionnaire including a fabric specimen labeled as "100%
polyester," "100% microfiber polyester," or no
information. Subjects were asked to describe and evaluate the
fabric. Results showed that the negative stereotype images of
polyester tended to influence subjects' evaluations of the fabric
specimen. However, subjects with lower TK tended to more influenced
by the polyester stereotype than did subjects with higher TK.
ANALYZES OF MICRO STRUCTURAL FEATURES OF NATURALLY COLORED COTTON
FIBERS. H. L. Chen. Apparel, Interiors, Housing, and Merchandising.
Oregon State University, Corvallis, OR 97331-5101. On-going research
project.
In recent years, a number of "environmentally cleaner"
processes have been tried in the cotton textile and apparel industries
because the current manufacturing processes use a large amount
of chemicals in the dyeing, printing and finishing of textile
products. Naturally colored cotton has been cultivated hundreds
of years. However only recently, have naturally colored cotton
fibers been successfully processed by modern textile machines.
The presence of natural pigment eliminates the need for dyeing
cotton, which saves the large amount of dye chemicals, water and
energy normally required during conventional cotton bleaching
and coloring processes. The proposed research will focus on analyzes
of the natural pigment and its relationships to the fiber structural
features of naturally colored cotton. Various analytical techniques
including infrared spectrometer (IR), scanning electron microscope
(SEM), mass spectrometer (MS), and nuclear magnetic resonance
spectrometer (NMR) will be employed to elucidate the micro structural
features which provide the baseline information for understanding
this fiber.
INSTRUCTIONAL TECHNIQUES FOR ADULT LEARNING: APPLICATION OF THE
LEARNING PARADIGM TO DESIGN AND STUDIO COURSES. Gatch, J.
A., & Pedersen, E. L. Apparel, Interiors, Housing and Merchandising.
Oregon State University. Corvallis, OR 97331-5101. Project completed
1997.|
Techniques and activities inspired by the Learning Paradigm were
incorporated into a draping course. Course requirements included
traditional draping assignments (e.g., originally designed, draped,
patterned, and constructed garments; project logs; in-class critiques)
along with in-class demonstrations developed and handled by each
student. Student designs were not "graded" by the instructor
on the student assigned due date (students set their own due dates).
Instead, each student received verbal and written feedback from
students and instructor. The student could then choose to use
the suggestions as a guide to increase the quality of the design.
The grading criteria for students' course grade were developed
by the students in discussion with the instructor to fit students'
learning needs. Students appreciated the use of the learning paradigm.
The opportunity for improving draped designs based on feedback
from both students and instructor was viewed positively. Students
commented that the in-class demonstrations "forced"
them to learn the material more in-depth than they might have
if not required to demonstrate the technique to others. The Learning
Paradigm is effective in promoting learning in design and studio
courses. Students accepted the extra responsibilities that accompanied
some of the freedoms not traditionally associated with the Instructional
Paradigm. Further exploration of the Learning Paradigm will help
educators determine methods which encourage learning in a variety
of subject matter areas.
APPLICATION OF THE ETHNOGRAPHIC APPROACH TO TEXTILES AND CLOTHING
RESEARCH REVISITED: A JOURNAL ANALYSIS. Gatch, J. A., &
Pedersen, E. L. Apparel, Interiors, Housing and Merchandising,
Oregon State University, Corvallis, OR 97331-5101. First stage
completed June 1997, second stage in process.
In 1984 Daly reviewed past textiles and clothing research to determine
the frequency of use of the ethnographic approach. The ethnographic
approach is a non-empirical process developed to learn about individuals'
and groups' behavior within a sociocultural context. It is a holistic
method that allows for the discovery of influences on behavior
that might not be discovered via empirical research methods. Daly
found a limited use of this method and encouraged its application
for future research. The purpose of this study was to examine
the frequency to which the ethnographic approach has been applied
by textiles and clothing scholars between and including the years
of 1984 and 1996. A journal analysis was conducted in which 739
research articles published in 46 issues of the Clothing and Textiles
Research Journal and 52 issues of the Family and Consumer Science
Research Journal (formerly HERJ) between and including the years
of 1984 and 1996 were examined. The method section in each article
was examined by the researchers in order to identify use of ethnographic
methods. Key words determined by Daly were used. Results revealed
that only ten studies in the CTRJ and three studies in the FCSRJ
(HERJ) used an ethnographic-type approach as a primary research
method between and including 1984 to 1996. Considerations were
discussed with regard to why more scholars are not choosing to
use this method. Researchers should consider this method both
alone or in conjunction with empirical methods because it can
provide plentiful and detailed data that would enable textile
and clothing scholars to understand cultures and their material
products more fully. The second phase of the project will explore
use of the ethnographic method in graduate theses and by textiles
and clothing scholars in other publications.
DRESS AND HUMAN BEHAVIOR RESEARCH: SAMPLING, SUBJECTS, AND CONSEQUENCES
FOR STATISTICS. S. J. Lennon (Ohio State), L. D. Burns, and
K. L. Rowold (Indiana University). Apparel, Interiors, Housing,
& Merchandising. Oregon State University, Corvallis, OR 97331-5101.
In Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 13 (4), 262-272.
Articles from the Home Economics Research Journal (Vol. 1-19,
n=108) and the Clothing and Textiles Research Journal (Vol. 1-9,
n=116) reporting dress research that involved the use of human
subjects were content analyzed. We were interested in the way
probability and nonprobability sampling techniques were used,
how they were combined with research designs, and their consequences
for generalizability and statistics. Studies were classified according
to the research design employed and sampling technique(s) used.
For studies classified as experimental design, they were further
classified as to whether they were between- subject or within-subject
and for between-subject studies whether or not subjects had been
randomly assigned to the experimental treatments. Results indicated
the most common research designs were descriptive and analytic
surveys (combined 63%) followed by laboratory experiments (26%).
Approximately 89% of the research used nonprobability sampling
procedures, both in survey and experimental research designs.
The consequences of the use of nonprobability sampling is discussed
and suggestions are offered for increasing generalizability when
nonprobability sampling is used in the research.
CLOTHING EVALUATIVE CRITERIA: A CROSS-NATIONAL COMPARISON OF TAIWANESE
AND UNITED STATES CONSUMERS. H. Hsu. Apparel, Interiors, Housing,
and Merchandising. Oregon State University, Corvallis, OR 97331-5101.
Thesis. Project completion 1995. Advisor: L. D. Burns.
This study compared the influence of culture on the importance
placed on clothing evaluative criteria between Taiwanese and U.S.
college women. Self-administered questionnaires were used for
data collection. Seven-point scales measured the importance of
12 clothing criteria: fabric, comfortable to wear, size/fit, quality,
country of origin, color, pleasing to others, suitability, price,
style, and coordination. The questionnaire also measured respondents'
demographic characteristics. The questionnaire was first developed
in English, translated into Chinese, and then back-translated
into English. Questionnaires were handed out in classes at Oregon
State University and Fu-Jen Catholic University in Taiwan. A convenience
sample of 84 U.S. and 119 Taiwanese women served as respondents.
Results indicated that importance placed on clothing evaluative
criteria was partially influenced by the nationality of the respondents.
Significant differences were found between the two groups in the
importance of comfortable to wear, size/fit, quality, country
of origin, and suitability. Despite differences, mean importance
scores were similar between the two groups; evaluative criterion,
size/fit was the most important criterion for both groups.
Consumer decision making processes of U.S. and Taiwanese college
females in the study were very similar for purchasing apparel.
Results have implications for marketers and researchers of cross-
national consumer decision making.
A CROSS-NATIONAL COMPARISON OF PARENT-CONSUMERS' EVALUATIVE CRITERIA
USED IN PURCHASING PRE-SCHOOL CHILDREN'S APPAREL. P. Chen.
Apparel, Interiors, Housing, and Merchandising. Oregon State University,
Corvallis, OR 97331-5101. Thesis. Project completion 1995. Advisor:
L. D. Burns.
This study compared the evaluative criteria used by Taiwan and
u.S. parent-consumers in their decisions to purchase children's
apparel. The importance of intrinsic criteria directly related
to the product itself and selected extrinsic criteria were examined.
A self-administered questionnaire was distributed to two nonprobability
purposive samples, 200 parents of children (ages 3 to 6) enrolled
in pre-schools at Oregon State University and Fu Jen Catholic
University in Taiwan. Response rate was 84%. Results of two sample
t-tests indicated significant differences between the two groups
in the importance of aesthetic and extrinsic criteria, but not
in the importance of usefulness and performance criteria. The
most important criteria for both groups were comfort and size/fit.
By identifying the evaluative criteria used by parent-consumers
of pre-school children's apparel in two countries, the results
partially supported the EKB consumer behavior model.
DEVELOPMENT OF A TEXTILE KNOWLEDGE INVENTORY. M. Choi and
L. D. Burns. Apparel, Interiors, Housing, and Merchandising. Oregon
State University, Corvallis, OR 97331-5101. Regional Research
Project, W-175. Project competed 1995.
Textile knowledge can be defined as the accurate information stored
in memory that is relevant to textiles. From a conceptual analysis,
38 preliminary true-false questions were initially generated.
To determine if the scale discriminated among levels of textile
knowledge, 116 students (32 of which had taken at least one textiles
course) completed the inventory. None of the 38 items were answered
either correctly or incorrectly by all subjects. Cross Product
Ratios were calculated to investigate item-to-item correlations.
Two scale items were significantly correlated with only one item
out of 37 items. The 38 items were also submitted to item analysis
using item-to-total correlations. According to Point Biserial
Correlation Coefficients (PBCC), the same two scale items also
had insignificant item-to-total correlations and were deleted
from the scale. To create a useful scale, the number of items
were further reduced by taking into consideration results of the
item-to-item analysis and PBCC, resulting in a 23-item inventory.
Content validity was checked through experimental manipulation
method. Students enrolled in an introductory textiles course completed
the inventory at the beginning and again at the end of the course.
Students' scores were significantly lower at the beginning of
the term than at the end; thus the inventory was considered to
have construct validity. Test-retest and internal consistency
methods (Kuder- Richardson-20 coefficient) were used to check
reliability of the inventory. Results indicated the inventory
was reliable over time and was internally consistent.
The Textile Knowledge Inventory will prove useful to researchers
investigating textile knowledge as a variable.
EFFECT OF "ENVIRONMENTALLY SOUND" MANUFACTURING PROCESSES
AND LABELING ON CONSUMERS' EVALUATIONS OF NATURAL FIBER PRODUCTS.
L. D. Burns, S. J. Lennon (Ohio State), & M. Choi. Apparel,
Interiors, Housing and Merchandising. Oregon State University.
Corvallis, OR 97331-5101. Regional Research Project W-175. Project
completed 1995.
The effect of "environmentally sound" manufacturing
processes and label information on consumers' evaluations of cotton
socks was examined. A 2 by 3 complete factorial between-subjects
experiment was conducted. The independent variables were method
of fiber processing used (unbleached or bleached) and product
label information (no information; fiber content and care instructions;
or fiber content, care instructions, and information on the "environmental
soundness" of the processing procedures). Dependent measures
were consumers' evaluations of and attitudes toward the socks,
likelihood of purchase, and perceived cost. Subjects (249 male
and female students) were randomly assigned to the treatments,
were given one of the two types of socks along with one of the
three forms of product label information, and were asked to complete
the dependent measures. Multivariate and univariate analysis of
variance indicated that the bleached socks were evaluated as softer,
of higher quality, more comfortable, more appealing, of higher
fabric quality, made better, and more expensive that the unbleached
socks. Subjects also liked the bleached socks to a greater degree
and indicated they were more likely to purchase the bleached socks
than the unbleached socks. Results suggest that, for the subjects
in this study, socks made with environmentally-friendly manufacturing
processes were perceived less favorably than socks made with traditional
manufacturing processes. Label information had little effect on
the evaluations.
SELF-GIFTS: CONSUMER PURCHASES OF CLOTHING GIFTS FOR THEMSELVES.
M. A. V. Cristi. Apparel, Interiors, Housing and Merchandising.
Oregon State University, Corvallis, OR 97331-5101. Thesis. Completed
1995. Advisor: C. L. Jordan.
This study identified occasions that prompt female college students
to purchase clothing as a self-gift and some of the underlying
motivations for purchasing gifts for themselves. Individual interviews
were conducted with 19 female college students. Each respondent
was shown four Self-Gift Thematic Apperception Test (SGTAT) stimulus
pictures depicting common self-gift contexts and asked to tell
a story about each picture. The audio-recorded interviews yielded
72 usable SGTAT stories (4 stories for each of 18 respondents).
Content and interpretive analyses revealed that personal situations
related to important life-transitions (e.g. coping with change),
work-related matters (e.g. positive or negative feelings about
one's job), school-related matters (e.g. success or failure on
an exam), and interpersonal relationship conflicts were occasions
that prompted the purchase of self-gifts. Common motivations for
the purchase of clothing self-gifts were to reward oneself, therapeutic
(to help cope with a situation), or just to be nice-to-self. Results
suggest that clothing gifts to oneself are often used to bolster
one's emotions such as to enhance appearance or restore the self-esteem.
Self-gift purchases tend to produce positive feelings about the
self. Self-gifts were found to be somewhat differentiated from
other personal acquisitions by their occasional and motivational
contexts. However, further research is needed to delineate the
contexts in which personal clothing acquisition is considered
or categorized as a self-gift.
DEVELOPMENT AND TESTING OF A DATA COLLECTION INSTRUMENT FOR BOYSú
CLOTHING 1867-1910: AN OREGON PHOTOGRAPHIC STUDY. K. S. Gallett.
Apparel, Interiors, Housing & Merchandising. Oregon State
University, Corvallis, OR 97331-5101. Thesis, Project completion
1995. Advisor: E. L. Pedersen.
The purpose of this study was to enable the description of the
clothing of elementary school-age boys in Oregon during the late
nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. A data collection instrument
was developed since no appropriate instrument for collecting data
on boysú clothing was located. School photographs were
used as a data source because it was believed that they will portray
clothing more characteristic of everyday dress than extant studio
photographs of the same time.
Garments which were worn throughout the time period of the study
were the suit jacket, knickers/trousers, waistcoat, tie, and hat.
Some suit jacket styles appeared in limited time periods. Overalls
were found in the initial time period and then not again until
1893 and after. Details in all garments changed over time. Variety
in neck tie and shirt collar styles decreased and some details
and features increased. In the examination of a subsample comparing
rural and urban boys clothing, the researchers found some differences.
The suit jacket, waistcoat, neck tie and hat appeared more frequently
in urban school photos.
The findings of this study add information about boyús
clothing in the 19th century in the far west. Previously little
information was available. This will aid those individuals interested
in historic dress and be of particular use to museum personnel
and those individuals interested in living history.
Utah State University
Department of Human Resources
303 Family Life Bldg.
Logan, Utah 84322-2910
Phone: (810) 797-1558
Fax: (810) 797-3845
FAMILY BUSINESSES: INTERACTION IN WORK AND FAMILY SPHERES. J.
J. Arbuthnot, Project Leader for Utah State University. AES Cooperative
Regional Research Project NE-167. (Project duration October 1,
1993 through September 30, 1998).
This study will build on work done in NE-167, "At-Home Income
Generation: Impact on Management, Productivity, and Stability
in Rural-Urban Families. The purpose of this research is to develop
a clear understanding of the relationship between family functioning
and business viability in families who own and operate businesses.
The sample frame will allow for the comparison of three major
subpopulations, home-based businesses and businesses owned by
women and minorities. Many of these businesses involve the production
and/or distribution of textile and apparel products.
Such understanding will be helpful in enhancing the stability
and security of families who own and operate businesses and in
developing policies and programs that foster family businesses
and assist in their contributions to community and economic development.
PROFILES OF TOURISTS IN NORTHERN UTAH: IMPLICATIONS FOR MARKETING
APPAREL AND OTHER GOODS AND SERVICES TO PROMOTE RURAL ECONOMIC
DEVELOPMENT. L.F. Anderson. Utah State University. New project
to be completed in 1997. College of Family Life Research Grant.
Tourism is Utah's largest industry. A review of tourist information
available to retailers in Northern Utah indicates that the most
recent data available were based on research completed in 1985.
This research examines the impact of tourist's consumer behavior
in apparel and other markets in Northern Utah to predict methods
of influencing it. A questionnaire has been developed on the kinds
of apparel and textile items and other goods purchased by the
tourists and on the demographics, patronage motives, and psychographics
of three categories of visitors to Utah, those who visit campgrounds,
tourist-information centers, and resorts. Data are being analyzed.
The study is designed to aid producers and retailers who need
to identify and target potential tourist consumers and their acceptable
price ranges.
WHAT RAPE VICTIMS' APPEARANCES MEAN TO RAPISTS AND TO VICTIMS.
This gender-related research will identify the significant
factors that are related to rape, based on the responses of convicted
rapists and victims. The present study investigates the appearance
of women (to include: (1) clothing, (2) hair style, (3) makeup,
(4) body language, and (5) context/setting) on the likelihood
of being raped. Photographs of women who differ in appearance
and are in different contexts will be used with a questionnaire,
that addresses these variables, to interview convicted rapists
and victims. Their responses will be analyzed to determine which
variables are meaningful to rapists and to victims and which are
not.
This study will supply new insights to parents, judges, lawyers,
jurors, law-enforcement officers, social workers, and designers
of clothing.
STANDARDS OF PHYSICAL ATTRACTIVENESS: COMPARISON OF AMERICAN AND
CHINESE COLLEGE STUDENTS. C. Chen. Utah State University.
Master's Research (Advisor: J.J. Arbuthnot).
The evidence of the physical attractiveness stereotype in America
reveals that there are certain aesthetic standards in judging
physical beauty. The purpose of this study was to determine what
body parts and functions American and Chinese male and female
graduate students use in assessing male and female physical attractiveness.
In addition, it will investigate whether these body items are
attributed with the same degree of importance by the different
genders and cultures, and whether the body items (e.g., face,
arms, waist) are related to the categories of body parts or body
functions (e.g., physical stamina, coordination, agility).
This study will provide cross-culture information related to perceptions
of attractiveness for advertisers, designers, manufacturers and
retailers of apparel.
THE CLOTHING NEEDS OF ELDERLY WOMEN. Q. Chen. Utah State University.
(Expected completion date: Winter 1996) Master's Research (Advisor:
J.J. Arbuthnot).
More than 28 million Americans are 65 years of age or older and
by the year 2000, the total population of those over 65 will be
more than 36 million. Women are the largest consumers of clothing
among this age group and there is a need to gain more knowledge
of their clothing needs. The purpose of this research is to analyze
the body characteristics of older women and design a line of clothing
to fit these needs. The garments will be constructed and women
in this age group will evaluate the desirability of the collection.
Such a study will help garment manufacturers and designers for
elderly women gain more information about their preferences as
well as needs.
Washington State University
Department of Apparel, Merchandising & Interior
Pullman, WA 99164-2020
Phone: (509) 335-7949
Fax: (509) 335-7299
VIRGINIA CITY, MONTANA TERRITORY: "THE SOCIAL CITY,"
AN INTERPRETIVE LOOK AT THE COATS OF THE STEAMBOAT BERTRAND. Meyer,
D. J. C. (1990). Unpublished master's thesis. Advisor: L. E. Wilson.
The purpose of this study was to investigate 137 men's coats of
various styles consigned to the retailing firm of Vivion and Simpson
of Virginia City, Montana. The coats were part of a shipment onboard
the steamboat, Bertrand, which sank in the Missouri River on April
1, 1865. Currently displayed in the DeSoto National Wildlife Refuge
and Steamboat Exhibit, the number and sophisticated style of many
of the coats were at odds with the often romanticized images in
many Western movies and novels. Analysis of the coats indicates
that Virginia City was not as isolated and self-sufficient as
was often protrayed. In fact, this community was a very "Easternized"
society in terms of goods and services, entertainment, and cultural
amentities. Research shows that etiquette demanding appropriate
fashion apparel for cultural and social events was closely followed
by many citizens of this city.
Study of the coats was helpful in determining a clearer picture
of what the residents of Virginia City sore and how their clothing
reflected aspects of their social and cultural surroundings. This
study also contribued to a greater understanding of life in a
western frontier society and the influence the East had upon this
culture. In addition, this research indicates that more coat types
were available to men of 1865 than has been indicated in clothing
history literature.
MARKETABILITY OF THE TEXTILE AND APPAREL MASTER'S GRADUATE TO
BUSINESS AND INDUSTRY EMPLOYERS. Meyer, D. J. C. (1995). Unpublished
doctoral dissertation, Iowa State University, Ames. Advisor: M.
L. Damhorst.
The purpose of this study was to explore the perceptions and attitudes
of textile and apparel industry human resource representatives
toward what they consider marketable skills possessed by textiles
and apparel Master's graduates. Overall, this study explored the
willingness of textile and apparel business and industry employers
to hire Master's graduates, and the types of skills, coursework,
and experience needed and wanted in employees with a Master's
degree.
Data were collected with a mail survey of human resource representatives
from 100 textile and apparel manufacturers, store retailers, and
catalog retailers with an annual organizational revenue of over
$25 million.
Results indicated that the possession of a Master's degree was
not considered valuable by most employers in the textile and apparel
industry. However, if a Master's graduate possessed the resources
of previous work experience, high interpersonal skills, and high
intellectual skills and had an emphasis in marketing or production
management, the overall value to some textile and apparel employers
increased. Textile and apparel master's graduates were rated relatively
high in intellectual abilities, but in comparison, lower on interpersonal
skills and knowledge gained from work experience. Contrasted against
the qualifications that human resources personnel weighted most
strongly when making hiring decisions, textiles and apparel Master's
graduates are only perceived to be well qualified in one of three
important areas. Textiles and apparel Master's graduates are perceived
as possessing more design and merchandising knowledge; however,
employers indicated that business-related knowledge was more desireable
for their employees to possess.
Results indicate that master's programs in textiles and apparel
should be evaluated to determine if they are providing effective
education for students wanting to go into industry. For applied
programs, curricular requirements should incorporate possible
work experience credit or internship credit to ensure that Master's
students are obtaining some previous work experience. Emphasis
in designing curricula to develop interpersonal skills of Master's
graduates should also be addressed. Advisors of master's students
in applied textiles and apparel programs should counsel students
on program emphasis, work experience, and the types of knowledge,
skills, and abilities most valued in employees by textile and
apparel employers.
ESTABLISHING A FIBER, TEXTILES AND APPAREL INFORMATION RESOURCE
ON THE INTERNET. T. Summers (Louisiana State), C. Salusso
(Washington State), N Cassill & B. Feather (North Carolina
State), B. Dastoor, and J. Kuttruff (Louisiana State). U.S.D.A.
Challenge Grant --September 1995-1998.
The International Textiles and Apparel Association, the professional
association that guides the field of textiles and apparel, promotes
subject matter research, teaching, and interaction among faculty,
students, and the textile and apparel industry. As the information
explosion continues, a need to focus information within the field
of textiles and apparel exists so that leading-edge information
is available to everyone.
This server will be a depository of leading-edge information in
the field of textiles and apparel. It will link academic research
to the textile and apparel industry. These interactions will produce
greater understanding, more academia/industry partnerships, and
enhanced access to leading-edge research, and will help identify
future areas of research.
This project is in the early stages. Among early components of
the dedicated server will be an International Textiles and Apparel
Association Homepage that is hot-linked to the textile and apparel
industry worldwide. Proposed content includes association information,
such as newsletters, and member information, and hot-links to
homepages for graduate and undergraduate programs. The homepage
is a joint responsibility across the states involved. Washington
State's responsibility in this project includes helping create
a research data base on the body as a framework for apparel. We
will also pilot development of world wide web conferences through
developing a conference on the topic of apparel sizing and body
form variation. Finally, we will prototype a despository for current
and ongoing research by inputting the WRCC-23 Regional Research
CommitteeTextile and Apparel Research News. As this dedicatedserver
is developed,we will expand the information to include all facets
of the textiles and apparel field.
PLACING THE INTERNATIONAL TEXTILES AND APPAREL ASSOCIATION ON
THE GLOBAL COMMUNICATION INFRASTRUCTURE. C. Salusso (Washington
State) & T. Summers (Lousiana State). An ITAA seed-grant from
the Sunbury Corporation in support of the overall Textiles and
Apparel field. Project completed 1996.
The purpose of this project was to explore establishment of a
server on the World Wide Web to disseminate information for the
International Textiles and Apparel Association and related businesses
and industries that support our field. Funding was used to explore
the process of placing ITAA on the global communication infrastructure
and promoting the concept of a dedicated server for ITAA.
Our ITAA homepage will be unveiled at the ITAA meeting in Canada
as an introduction to the dedicated server concept. We invite
membership participation in providing the world with current information
on who we are, what we are doing, and how much Textiles and Clothing
as a discipline has contributed and continues to contribute to
people, products and processes.
HUMAN PHYSIOLOGICAL AND PERCEPTUAL RESPONSES TO THE TEXTILES-SKIN
INTERFACE. C. Salusso & T. Lin. Department of Apparel,
Merchandising and Interior Design, Washington State University.
J. Hethorn (University of California), S. Ashdown (Cornell University)
, M. Dallas (Colorado State), K. LaBat (University of Minnesota)
& L. Schoenberber (Iowa State). Project completion July 1997.
Sponsored by W-175.
This regional project combines textile science and product development,
focusing on wearer needs and preferences and clothing use (environment,
activity, participants). Some groups of consumers are currently
not considered when apparel is designed. These niche markets provide
an opportunity to develop products tailored to these groups. A
research base is needed that takes consumer reactions into account
in the textile and apparel industry. The ultimate goal is to to
create procedures to develop quality products that meet consumers'
demands.
Researchers from 10 universities across the United States collaborate
within the Western Region Research Committee, W-175. Methods are
being developed to interrelate laboratory tests assessing the
mechanical qualities of fabric character with consumers' subjective
perceptions of textile products. Sizing and fit are important
parts of creating qualilty products since perceptions of skin
contact are also defined as style and fit by consumers. For example,
research has shown that pants are so poorly designed and sized
that most older women have incredible difficulty finding even
such basic apparel as a blazer, top, and pant combination.
Investigating consumer reactions to textiles that contact the
skin provides a research base for an engineering approach to product
development. Context, how one uses apparel, plays a critical role
in the perception of textiles, and helps organize the use of textiles
and textile products. Research at Washington State has been focused
on developing sizing of pants for women aged 55 to 65. Prototypes
are being developed in cooperation with Koret of California, anapparel
company that considers older women an important target market.
Prototypes that span the size range recently published by ASTM
for older women will be tested for fit and wear in Summer/Fall
1996. Data collection will include responses to textiles as apparel
and as swatches, providing another check of validity to textile
analysis and description. State-of-the-art computer graphics will
help assess aesthetic preferences. This final phaseof the current
project will complete the process from textile to end product
and consumer response..
HUMAN PHYSIOLOGICAL AND PERCEPTUAL RESPONSES TO THE TEXTILES-SKIN
INTERFACE. C. Salusso, D. Meyer & T. Tjahadi. Department
of Apparel, Merchandising and Interior Design, Washington State
University. Project completed July 1996. Sponsored by W-175.
Under Objective 2 of the W-175 project, this research is focused
on investigating the decision process of men considering purchasing
apparel from mail order catalogs. A master's thesis that included
survey of male faculty yields insights into the decision process
followed by men when purchasing apparel from catalogs as well
as retail and other sources. Analysis of descriptions used by
Land's End catalog is being prepared for joint analysis with other
W-175 researcher to investigate if gender and/or lifestyle impacts
product descrilptions. Land's End has provided apparel for use
in an upcomiing focus group examination of catalog descriptions
and pictures as aids to predicting product quality prior to purchase.
Men have been largely ignored by researchers investigating purchasing
decisions. Yet current maket statistics show more growth potential
for men than women. As we know more about men as consumers, product
development and product distribution will improve.
THE VISIBLE SYMBOL: MISSION WOMEN'S VIEWS OF THE ROLE OF DRESS
IN "CIVILIZING" THE NEZ PERCE. E. Erikson and D.
J. Trayte. Department of Apparel, Merchandising and Interior Design,
Washington State University. Project completion 1997.
This M.A. study explores the views and ideas concerning the role
of dress in transforming American Indian culture that were held
by women attached to Christian missions in the Northwest.
Benefits: Better understanding of the symbolic role dress played
in the negotiation of relationships between Nez Perce and Euroamerican
individuals in the late 1800's will expand our understanding of
the role of dress in cultural change and continuity. Also, our
understanding of 19th century, Christian, frontier women's views
of the role of dress in social relations will be expanded.
THE ROLE OF DRESS IN ESTABLISHING AND MAINTAINING ADOLESCENT IDENTITY:
AN ANALYSIS OF ADOLESCENT DRESS AS A COMMUNICATOR OF IDENTITY.
T. Gadson & D. J. Trayte. Department of Apparel, Merchandising,
and Interior Design and Department of Educational Leadership and
Counseling Psychology. Washington State University. Project completion
1997.
This Ph.D. study is undertaken to better understand the role of
dress in adolescent identity formation and social interaction.
A qualitative case study approach is being employed.
Benefits: This research will enhance our understanding of the
role of dress in adolescent identity formation, and hopefully,
provide parents, school administrators and policy makers with
data upon which to base decisions regarding codes of dress in
school settings.
SCHOOL DRESS CODES: CONTEXT, STRUCTURE, AND THE ROLE OF DRESS
IN EDUCATIONAL SETTINGS. D. Trayte. Department of Apparel,
Merchandising, and Interior Design. Washington State University.
This study is designed to enhance our understanding of the effects
of school dress codes on the many individuals -students, teachers,
administrators, parents- who comprise various school systems (primarily
secondary). Qualitative and quantitative methodologies are employed
in this study.
Benefits: This study is intended to develop a rational basis for
implementing or not implementing dress codes in educational settings.
UNIVERSITY OF WYOMING
Department of Family and Consumer Sciences
College of Agriculture Building
P.O. Box 3354
Laramie, WY 82071
Phone: (307) 766-4145
Fax: (307) 766-3379
THE PHOTO- AND THERMAL-DEGRADATION OF U.S. WOOLS. B.A. Cameron
and D.M. Brown, Department of Home Economics, University of Wyoming.
Proceedings of the 9th International Wool Textile Research Conference,
Biella, Italy, 1995, Vol II, 279 - 286. Project completed.
Samples of wool fabrics were exposed to a simulated light source
for periods of one, two, four and eight weeks. The results of
the photoyellowing of the different wool samples clearly indicated
that there were significant differences between the yellowness
indices of the control samples (before exposure the wools produced
at higher elevations were significantly less yellow than those
produced at lower elevations). However, after eight weeks exposure
there was no significant difference between the different wools.
Results of phototendering between wool samples show there was
no common trend in strength characteristics of the wools. However,
at eight weeks exposure, as for photoyellowing, there was no significant
difference in the strength of the different wool samples. As expected,
the tryptophan contents and total sulfur contents (cystine/cysteine)
decreased as the wools were exposed over the one, two, four and
eight week periods. All samples were significantly yellowed by
placing them in an oven at 115oC for six days. However, with the
exception of the commercial fabric, there was no significant difference
between the strength of the exposed fabrics and the fabrics before
exposure.
SENSORY INTERACTION AND DESCRIPTIONS OF FABRIC HAND. L. D. Burns,
Oregon State University, Donna M. Brown and Bruce Cameron, University
of Wyoming, Joan Chandler and Susan B. Kaiser, University of California-Davis,
and Merry Jo Dallas, Colorado State University. 1995. Perceptual
and Motor Skills, 81, 120 - 122. Continuing project.
Eighty-two subjects who viewed and felt fabrics (sensory interaction
group) used different categories of terms to describe fabric hand
than did 38 subjects who only felt the fabrics. Therefore, the
methods used to measure fabric hand that isolate the senses may
not accurately assess the way in which subjects describe fabric
hand in non laboratory settings.
A SURVEY OF COMMERCIAL LAUNDRY DETERGENTS - HOW EFFECTIVE ARE
THEY? PART III: POWDERS, LIQUIDS, AND HARD WATER. B. A. Cameron
and D. M. Brown. University of Wyoming. 1995. Journal of Consumer
Studies and Home Economics, 19, 85 - 97. Project completed.
The effectiveness of 42 detergents, 11 non-phosphate containing
powdered detergents, 12 phosphate containing powdered detergents,
11 unbuilt liquid detergents and eight built liquid detergents,
of varying formulations, in cleaning a standard soiled fabric
in water of varying hardness was evaluated. Powdered detergents
were found to be significantly affected only at very high water
hardness levels. There was no significant difference between washing
in warm and hot water for the liquid detergents, except for a
melaleuca-oil based detergent which performed significantly better
in hot water. Increasing water hardness had no significant effect
on liquid detergents. Powdered detergents performed better than
liquid detergents in cleaning the standard soiled fabric. While
no one detergent was significantly better than the others, in
general, washing with detergents that contained phosphates did
give somewhat better results in warm water. Detergents that contained
bleach as an additive did not result in whiter fabric.
CONSUMER-GENERATED CONCEPTUAL FRAMEWORK FOR FABRIC DESCRIPTORS.
J. L. Chandler, S. B. Kaiser and K. Socarras, University of
California-Davis, Donna M. Brown and Bruce Cameron, University
of Wyoming, and Roselyn Smitley, New Mexico State University.
1995. Proceedings of the 52nd International Textile and Apparel
Association Meeting, 67. Continuing project.
As part of a larger study involving the sensory perception of
fabrics, our goal was to develop a conceptual classification system
for fabrics that is relevant for consumers. We asked consumers
to classify fabrics and fabric descriptors rather than imposing
an "expert-generated" system.
To determine how a diverse group of consumers would categorize
fabric descriptors, we asked groups of 4-5 students in a large
(n = 234) G.E. course to put the terms/descriptors into groups
and then name the group/category.
The most commonly generated categories referred to potential end-use
(sweaters, lingerie, dresses). Some categories involved fiber
content (cotton, wool, silk) and fabric names (knit), or characteristics
(stretchy). However, unlike experts, the consumers did not distinguish
between fiber and fabric attributes, but rather characterized
a kind of fabric gestalt. Based on this work, we propose a conceptual
classification system derived through the input of a consumer
population reflecting gender and ethnic diversity.
THE RURAL RETAILER IN TOURIST COMMUNITIES: PROBLEMS AND
IMPLICATIONS FOR MANAGERIAL STRATEGIES. W.M. Crank, M. Consulting,
C. Jasper, University of Wisconsin, S. Meyer, University of Wyoming,
B. Sternquist, Michigan State University. 1995. Journal of Travel
and Tourism Marketing, 4 (2), 99 - 105. Project completed.
This study examines problems currently faced by rural retailers.
It is based on data collected in three states, all with a strong
tourism economic base: Michigan, Wisconsin and Wyoming. Data were
collected through focus group interviews. The issue of consumer
satisfaction with the community as a whole and the retail market
in particular was central to many of the discussions. Several
factors within the control of rural retailers that create or exacerbate
consumer dissatisfaction and outshopping were identified. The
discussion provided insights into the development of practical
strategies and tactical solutions for improving the competitive
strength of the local retail market.
WHO'S SHOPPING RURAL AMERICA? PERCEPTIONS OF THE LOCAL MARKETPLACE
AND PATRONAGE BEHAVIOR OF RURAL CONSUMERS. T.A. Summers and
B. Smith, Louisiana State University Agricultural Center, S.U.
Douglas, University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign, S.S. Meyer,
University of Wyoming, R. Feinberg, Purdue University, B. Minshall,
K.L. Wessel, The Ohio State University. 1995. 2nd International
Conference on Recent Advances in Retailing and Services Science,
Broad beach, Australia,
(in press). Project completed.
This study was part of the 12-state NC-192 Regional Research Project
- "Rural retailing: Impact of change on consumer and community"
- whose purpose was to identify options that would maximize the
retail environment of the rural community and increase retailer
ability to satisfy consumer wants and needs. This paper focuses
on rural consumers' perceptions of their local communities and
marketplaces, their patronage of local stores, and their outshopping
behavior.
A telephone survey of consumers randomly selected from 48 communities
with populations of 10000 or less, located in communities classified
as non-Metropolitan Statistical Areas, evenly distributed across
the 12-state region (Iowa, Illinois, Indiana, Kansas, Louisiana,
Michigan, Nebraska, North Dakota, Ohio, Oklahoma, Wisconsin, and
Wyoming) was completed in 1992. A total of 1,284 useable consumer
interviews were achieved . Data were analyzed by discriminant
analysis to categorize rural consumers into two groups, outshoppers
and local shoppers. Factor analysis of perception items produced
seven factors, Community Involvement, Image, Environment, Price/Quality,
Policy, Convenience, and Mismanagement which were included in
the discriminant analysis . Chi-square tests were performed to
determine if there were differences between outshoppers and local
shoppers based on demographic characteristics. The discriminant
analysis revealed highly statistically significant differences
in perceptions of the outshopper and local shopper groups. Chi-square
analyses revealed significant differences between outshoppers
and local shoppers by age, tenure in the community, and economic
base of the community.
A major contribution of this work is information about the population
from which the sample was drawn. Few previous studies of consumer
perceptions of the marketplace have focused on small rural communities,
and none have had samples drawn from as broad a region of the
United States. Findings provide insights which should be valuable
to community planners, retailers, and consumers who are interested
in the continued viability and growth of rural communities.
WYOMING QUILT PROJECT. S. S. Meyer, K. Bertoncelj, A. Olsen,
T Payne, ad W. Ware.
On-going project.
The purpose of this project is to record the ongoing traditions
of quiltmaking, encourage conservation of quilts, provide education
on the importance of quiltmaking to the material culture of the
state, and provide a basis for continued documentation in the
future. A large number of quilts have been documented from several
locations throughout the state. This project will continue over
the next few years. The anticipated outcomes include an archival
collection of color slides and written documentation of all quilts
documented. Additionally, educational programming and publications
are anticipated results.
IMAGES AND IMPRESSIONS OF THE RURAL RETAIL ENVIRONMENT: DIALOGUES
WITH CONSUMERS AND RETAILERS. S. U. Douglas, University of
Illinois, Holly Bastow-Shoop, North Dakota State University, Laura
Jolly, University of Kentucky, Rita Kean, University of Nebraska,
Sonya Meyer, University of Wyoming, and Teresa Summers, Louisiana
State University. 1995. Proceedings of the 52nd International
Textile and Apparel Association, 26 - 28.
The primary objective of this project has been to identify means
by which retail environments of rural communities could be optimized
in order to strengthen retail activities and increase satisfaction
levels of consumers. The interest in this topic that existed in
1988 and 1989 has only increased with the passage of time. In
the 1990's, rural economic development issues continue to stimulate
concern and controversy, and rural revitalization has attracted
the attention of policy makers as well as researchers.
In order to investigate the retailer-consumer interface, we examined
specific retail marketing and management operations as well as
more general perceptions of those directly involved - retailers'
perceptions of their consumers and consumers' perceptions of retailers
in their communities. States included in the project were Iowa,
Illinois, Indiana, Kansas, Louisiana, Michigan, Nebraska, North
Dakota, Ohio, Oklahoma, Wisconsin and Wyoming. In phase I of the
project three focus group sessions were conducted in each of two
selected communities in each state, one session with retailer
participants and two with consumer participants. Phase II of the
project involved collection of telephone and mail survey data
from four communities in each of the states. Reports from this
project in the form of papers, theses, and articles suggest that
two areas warrant further attention. One of these is data from
focus group interviews which remain largely unanalyzed. The second
is examination of relationships between the retail data and the
consumer data.
Analysis of this data has shown that the challenge of the changing
retail environment was mentioned more frequently by retailers
than by consumers. In spite of challenges, frustrations, and complaints,
however, retailers were generally positive about their choice
of opening or continuing to operate a business in a small town.
Our exploration of the interface between rural consumers and retailers
reminded us that marketing occurs on a social level as an economic
level. Moreover, the role that perceptions play in the business
world cannot be ignored.
SURGEONS USAGE AND IMPRESSIONS OF TEXTILE POLYMER IMPLANTS. T.
E. Sprout, B. A. Cameron, D. M. Brown, R. M. Schantz, R. Stewart,
University of Wyoming. Project completed. Manuscript submitted.
This was an exploratory study undertaken to determine the usage
rate, effectiveness, and demand for polyester, polypropylene,
and expanded polytetrafluoroethylene (ePTFE) surgical implants.
Sixty-six surgeons in the Colorado front range and Wyoming region
responded to a survey and were divided into one of three surgical
specialization groups. Frequency analysis was employed to interpret
data categorically and as a whole. Each group indicated that polypropylene
was the most effective and most used raw material for implant
use, followed by polyester and ePTFE. About 75% of all respondents
reported that synthetic implants would not become obsolete and
47% reported that market removal of implant raw materials would
limit what could be done for some patients. Compared to orthopedic
surgeons, respondents specializing in cardiovascular, vascular,
thoracic, and general surgery indicated the highest usage and
effectiveness ratings and would be the most affected if implants
were removed from the market.
Cameron, B.A. and Brown, D.M. "Paul Stock Foundation Work
Study Award", for undergraduate study on "Physiological
and perceptual responses to textiles", 1995, $400.
Cameron, B.A. "Malaysian Polytechnic Training Center Project".
1995. $6,211 from Purdue University.
Last update @10/19/99